DIY – Page 8 – Jenna Burger Design LLC – Interior Design & Architectural Consulting

Old Lamp. New Life.

Written by Jenna on April 25, 2014. Posted in DIY, lighting. 6 Comments on Old Lamp. New Life.

One of my Saturday favorites is to hit up some local thrift stores for unusual finds and inspiration. Unfortunately it doesn’t happen as often as I’d like, but a few weeks ago when the kiddos were with the grandparents, the Mister and I hit up one of my go-to places.

We scored a couple of cute things, like a brass owl bell (which my kids love to ring) + a new chair (which will soon get a spray paint makeover)…

…as well as this brass wall sconce for $15. It was something that I’ve been searching for, but others I almost bought (new and old) were much more expensive. I was thrilled to find this treasure and I knew the perfect place for it!

The blue room (a.k.a. my home office / family room) has been complete for over a year, but I’m always ‘changing things up’ and switching out the layers of pillows + accessories. One element that I was on the search for since finishing the space was a wall sconce to attach to the side of the painted bookcases.

My new found treasure worked out perfectly…

Here’s how I gave this old lamp new life…

The back of the lamp had no “guts”, which worked fine for me because I took a piece of scrap wood and cut it to fit snug inside the round plate.

Once I knew the fit was just right, I took the piece of wood out of the lamp. I determined where I wanted the lamp to sit on the bookcase, and then attached the piece of wood to the side of the bookcase with wood screws.

Once the wood was secure, I stuck the lamp base onto the wood. The round base fit so snug that there was no additional screws needed. The base simply is held in place by tension…

And voila, it was complete (almost)…

After giving the brass a good shining + adding a new lampshade (the old one was garbage bound), this was the result…

And how the room looks now with this new found treasure…

And the best part, it works…

From start to finish, the lamp literally took minutes to install + there was no electrical needed. The cord was attached to this thrift store find and all I had to do was plug it in. And a little tid-bit ~ to keep the cord taught on the bookcase, I used a piece of duct tape to keep it in place.

I’m simply smitten over my new trash to treasure!

It’s amazing what a little outside-of-the-box thinking can do. I’m thrilled that I waited it out to find just the right piece and in the end, it only cost $15!

What have been your favorite trash to treasure finds either from a garage sale, thrift store, or on the side of the road?

Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile Floor {an Update}

Written by Jenna on April 23, 2014. Posted in DIY, Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile, Tile. 12 Comments on Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile Floor {an Update}

In the 400+ posts I’ve shared over the years there are a select few that I receive questions about on a daily basis. Which, by the way, I love! Reader inquiries + questions make me so happy 🙂

One post, in particular, that many readers are interested in is my experience with groutable luxury vinyl tile flooring.

I’ve installed groutable LVT in my parents floor + my foyer + my master bath + in the kids bath, so I can officially say I’ve had some experience with the product.

So the basic question I continually get asked is: Has your vinyl tile held up + How is it today?

Here are just a few of the reader questions I’ve received:

From Rachele
> Hi! I just came across you on pinterest about the groutable vinyl floor tiles I was curious how they hold up over time? I never knew you could do this so of course I’m thinking tomorrow we will go buy flooring and get busy! LOL but I wanted to ask over time how it held up? Thank you so much.

From Shirley
> I’m in the process of installing vinyl groutable tile in a kitchen and dining area. The area already have vinyl square tiles on the floor. My question is, do I need to install a sub-floor/wood boards before installing the vinyl tile ?

From Kamie
> Hello, I came across your post about the installation of peel and stick vinyl tiles in January of 2012. I found this same product today on my hunt for new flooring for my kitchen. My question to you is, how has it held up so far? Is it durable? Are you still satisfied with the product? You response and insight are greatly appreciated.

From Cathy
> I saw these vinyl tiles at Lowe ‘s and read the box, but it didn’t have a lot of details. For example, we want to put these in our kitchen which has vinyl sheeting glued on concrete. Should we remove the old vinyl first or put these tiles directly ver the old vinyl. I’m sure it will be extremely difficult to get the old stuff up. Then there will be old glue to also get up. Another question I have is should you put down additional glue besides the glue on the back of the tile? If so, what kind? These do appear to be easier than wood, cork, or porcelain tile. We’ve used the old peel and stick before in other homes. Thanks for your info.

From Carrie
> I am researching groutable tile and came across your blog. Now that it has been down for a year how is the grout holding up? We are thinking about putting this in our kitchen and keep going back and forth on whether or not we want to grout it. It seems like the people who put it over pre-existing ceramic tile or cement have the best results. Ours is just a lauan subfloor and we live in an old house (1870’s) so it is hard to have perfectly level floor. Just wondering your thoughts of the durability. Right now in our renovation we are at the end of our budget so we wanted something we can do by ourselves but also looked good in the end. I am just terrified of having the grout crack and pull away. The tiles we are looking at are beveled so we could do it without grout, but that makes me worried that dirt and liquid could cause a problem.

From Joseph
> I came across your web page while looking for groutable vinyl tile and I was just curious how is it holding up 2 years later? Would you do it again. Are there any cons to it that you have come across? Thanks

> Hello Jenna – I was so glad I found your great DIY on groutable vinyl floor tiles – this is exactly what I want to do for my kitchen floor. I will also be covering
smaller square ceramic tiles with larger vinyl tiles. My question is, did you have to put extra adhesive down in the lower grout lines of the ceramic floor to eliminate any “sunken” or dip lines in the finished vinyl tile floor?

From Janet
> Thank you for you thoughts. What you did for your parents foyer looks great and you have me very psyched to do this!!

And there are many more, but these are the general questions readers have asked & this post is dedicated to answering them all (or as much as I can…)

My Overall Thoughts on Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile

I am very satisfied! Overall, all of the LVT floors I have installed have held up amazingly. There has not been one issue with the flooring cracking, settling, sinking, etc. With all the floors I have installed, I DID NOT remove the existing floor, but all the floors ‘before’ were ceramic and in good condition with no cracking. In none of the spaces did I fill in the existing joints and none of the luxury vinyl floor tiles have “sunk” in those crevices. LVT floor is thick and really not bendable as in typical vinyl tiles. You can definitely tell the difference between the two and the cost reflects that. LVT is more expensive than a typical vinyl tile, but it is absolutely worth the additional cost. I still feel that using groutable luxury vinyl tile is a wonderful long-term solution for a floor. The look is very similar to ceramic tile & the turn-around time and ease of installation is incredible. A floor that can be done in one day (install + grout) with no prior experience is pretty great, don’t you think?!

Luxury Vinyl Tile in the Master Bathroom

Now that I’ve shared my overall thoughts on LVT, here are answers to the Top TEN Questions that have been asked:

1. How has the tile held up over time?

Fabulous. As I said in my overall thoughts, there has not been one issue in any of the spaces that I have installed the LVT. With the use of grout, the tiles are very sturdy and there have been no issues with loosening of the glue or the tile shifting over time. Once the grout hardens, the tile is fully adhered to the floor below. When I remodeled the powder room and replaced the toilet, a few of the tiles had to be fixed because I had originally cut the tile around the base of the bowl. The LVT and grout were installed so well to the floor below that it was actually difficult to lift the tiles. They eventually came up, but it took some muscle.

2. Do I need to install a sub-floor/wood boards before installing the vinyl tile?

This is a difficult question to answer because every floor, in every home is different and I’m sharing my experience and the installation process I took. BUT, here is my thought… If the floor you are working with is in good condition – no cracks, lifting, etc – you should be okay to install the LVT directly on top. So basically you are purely changing the floor because of how it looks versus because it is damaged. If the floor you are covering has issues and/or is damaged, then it would be best to remove the floor, install / patch the existing subfloor, and then install the luxury vinyl tile.

3. Is it durable?

I think the product is very durable, especially with the use of grout. All of the spaces (foyers + bathrooms) I have installed the LVT are high-traffic areas and the tile has been exposed to water, mud, wet shoes, and more. No where have I seen issues with lifting or general wear.

4. Why do you love LVT?

4 reasons…

> The ease of install – it’s a one day job (depending on the size of the space of course). Yes, I have tiled before, but I do not feel that installing LVT was difficult at all. I think a person with little experience can complete this project with ease. Measuring and cutting is really the most difficult part of the project, so take your time and measure correctly! Installing ceramic tile is not difficult, but it is tricky and experience is helpful. Cutting ceramic tile can often be difficult and time consuming. For prior ceramic tile projects, Iâ€™ve used tile snips, a tile cutter, and a wet saw. A wet saw is the best for cutting ceramic tile, but itâ€™s not easy â€“ Iâ€™ve made alot of mistakes. In my estimation, ceramic tile would take about double the time for installation compared to installing groutable vinyl tile.

> No prior experience installing a floor is needed.

> The cost is more than half of ceramic tile. A standard 40-50 sq. ft. space is fairly inexpensive. The typical luxury vinyl tiles that I purchased from Loweâ€™s were $1.08 and the premixed grout cost $7. The total cost of an entire project for this square footage would cost about $65. Ceramic tile is available in a range of prices, but usually starts at $2 per sq. ft., so the savings right there is 50%.

> Luxury vinyl tile is flexible + forgiving. I’ve installed ceramic tile before and within a few months it started cracking in some areas because the subfloor wasn’t level. I’m not a professional and don’t have the budget to pay a professional, yet I wanted change. LVT is a great solution because it provides the flexibility for a slightly uneven floor below. YET, by adding the grout, the result is a sturdy, durable finished product.

5. Should you put down additional glue besides the glue on the back of the tile?

I never used additional glue. I felt the glue that was on the back of the tile was enough for it to adhere to the floor below. The glue on the back of the tile is very sticky and once the paper backing was removed, I immediately laid it into place. IF the tile isn’t used right away and over time the back is exposed to air, additional glue might be needed. I can not recommend a glue to use since I have never used one.

6. The tiles we are looking at are beveled so we could do it without grout? What are your thoughts?

I don’t prefer the look of a beveled LVT because to me it defeats the purpose of them looking like ceramic tile and that is the reason I like LVT. If you use a beveled tile and don’t use grout, I do not think you will get the same result as I did. The finished look won’t be the same and durability could be compromised because the addition of the grout really keeps the tiles in place. I would suggest if you are spending the money and taking the time to install a vinyl floor, the luxury vinyl tile + the grout is your best option for a long-lasting result.

7. Did you have to put extra adhesive down in the lower grout lines of the ceramic floor to eliminate any “sunken” or dip lines in the finished vinyl tile floor?

I did not. In my foyer I was going to add a skim coat before installing the LVT but decided against it. The grout lines were very large and deep which is what I was worried about, but I decided to move forward with the LVT. After 1.5 years, there have been no issues and no “sinking” / dip lines. Again, this is my experience with the LVT and I feel that because it’s thicker than typical vinyl tile, it holds up extremely well.

8. Where do I buy Luxury Vinyl Tile?

I purchased the luxury vinyl tile for my projects at Lowe’s. There are a few companies that sell LVT and there is a special section with these specific tiles. LVT is the general name, but don’t get them confused with other names like high-end or something else. You will definitely know the different between LVT and regular vinyl tile – they feel much more durable.

9. How long do I have to wait to grout after the tile is installed?

0 minutes. There is no “set time” with LVT as is with ceramic tile. As soon as your tiles are installed, you can immediately get to grouting! How fab is that?!

10. Name 1 Con!

That’s a tough one… I guess I would say, the one con is the color selection. I have purchased groutable luxury vinyl tile at Loweâ€™s, but other home improvement stores also offer similar products. The selection is not as vast as ceramic tile (which is a con), but I was surprised by the wide range of colors and textures. When I was at the store making my purchase, I was told by a sales rep that any peel-and-stick vinyl tile is groutable, except for the styles that have the faux grout look around the edge. I donâ€™t know if this is true or not, but itâ€™s what I was told.

Have more questions? Please Ask!

I’ve tried to cover it all. How did I do??

Check out these posts on how-to install groutable luxury vinyl tile floor:
DIY: Installing Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile {my foyer}
How-To Install Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile {my parents foyer}

Since groutable vinyl tile takes no experience, is half the cost, and takes half the time, what will use for your next tile project?

DIY: Frame Turned Tray

Written by Jenna on April 9, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Table Setting. 7 Comments on DIY: Frame Turned Tray

This post brought to you by Elmerâ€™s ProBond Advanced. All opinions are 100% mine.

With the excitement of Spring finally here (our snow is almost all melted), I started spicing up the house with a few lighter + brighter elements. The first area that I started with… The Foyer! The entryway of the home is the perfect place to get the Spring time decor rolling. Incorporating trays are a design-must in my book for styling tabletops + vignettes. After clearing off the top of the gold dresser to start with a fresh palette, I knew I needed a new tray. So I made one…

From Frame to Tray, check out my new Spring entry vignette. It’s simple, but fresh…

This frame turned tray took no time at all to create + the cost was much less than any trays I’ve recently seen or purchased in the past. Plus, the beauty of it is, it’s customizable. More on that in a minute…

For this project, these are the materials I used:

> Frame – I simple picture frame with a flat, simple edge is a must for the hardware to lay flat. The size frame I chose fits an 11 x 14 picture

>Cabinet Pulls (for the kitchen or bath – I got these gold pulls from Lowe’s)

> Something special to display – I chose to use a piece of leftover wallpaper from my powder room, but try a family picture, kids artwork, or anything that is meaningful to you.

Last, but most important for this project is Elmer’s ProBond Advanced!

This project literally took minutes to make.

Using the amazing formula, Elmer’s ProBond, which is magical when it comes to adhering a porous material with a non-porous material (Mixed Materials like wood to metal for this DIY project), I added the “glue” to the metal pull.

Then I “eyed it” and placed the pull in the center of the frame surround. Same with the second pull, and voila, the frame instantly became a tray. From vertical to horizontal…

The next step was the fun part, customizing the tray with leftover wallpaper scrap (from the powder room).

After figuring out what I wanted to see within the matting space, I cut a piece of wallpaper to size.

And the result…

With the Elmer’s ProBond Advanced there was no messy foam residue, as sometimes found with other glues. Just as we’re used to the plain ole’ white Elmer’s glue (yup, the kind our kids use), the ProBond didn’t run at all. Once I attached the pull to the frame, there was a little “seepage” that I simply used a paper towel to clean up around the edges.

Think about all the projects – big and small – you could tackle with this magical formula?!

Taking a step further, I created another Spring tabletop vignette using the Frames Wallpaper that I used in my boys room and shared a few weeks ago…

And there it is. A 10-minute DIY creation using a magic formula like no other!

Be sure to check back next week for the result of another DIY project I am working on. It involves the Elmer’s ProBond Advanced again, but on a larger scale project. Like I said, for big or small, this glue is awesome.

Dip Dyed Easter Eggs using Food Coloring

Written by Jenna on April 7, 2014. Posted in Art, Color, DIY, Easter, Holiday, Seasonal. 18 Comments on Dip Dyed Easter Eggs using Food Coloring

I am blown away by how many of you have read + pinned my Easter Egg post that I recently shared. Over 100,000 so far and it’s only been a week & a half. Since y’all loved my alternative idea for dying eggs, I have another fun + inexpensive + super easy way to create Easter Eggs that will give you a vibrant + unique result!

I was inspired to create these dip-dyed eggs when flipping through the pages of the recent All You magazine that I picked up while shopping at Target.

The magazine has so many creative ideas for Easter egg dying that there will be no reason to ever buy a box again…

Use this $1 off coupon (while supplies last) to snag your own All You magazine on newsstands now!

Can I just say, the gold decorated eggs are killer. I didn’t have a chance to get to the store to buy gold leafing (which I will be doing soon though), so instead used what I had on-hand and chose to try the dip-dyed decorating idea. Food Coloring… most everyone has that in the cabinets and eggs are a staple in our house.

Supplies Needed:

Hard-boiled eggs
Boiling Water
Vinegar
Food Coloring
Paper Towels
Tongs or a Slotted Spoon

To start offâ€¦

1. Put the eggs in a pot and fill the pot with cold water so it covers the eggs about 1-2â€³.

2. Once the eggs come to a full boil, remove the pot from the stove and cover for 12 minutes (so they create a hard-boiled egg).

3. Carefully remove the eggs from the pot and let them stand for about 1-2 minutes (the eggs will be very hot, so be sure to use tongs when removing them from the pot).

4. Once cooled, it’s time to make the magic dying formula…

For each color, you’ll need this mixture:

1/2 cup of boiling water
1 tsp vinegar
25 drops of food coloring

and mix together.

Now here comes the fun part…

Egg 1

For the first egg, I chose to use 2 different colors (blue & yellow) and dip 1/3 of each side into the colorful mix.

1. Dip 1/3 of the egg into color 1 (blue)

2. About 60 seconds later (longer to achieve a darker color), remove the egg from the dye. Let it air dry for a few minutes, then pat it with a paper towel.

3. Flip it around and dip 1/3 of the other side into color 2 (yellow). 60 seconds later, take it out, and you’re done!

The result…

Egg 2

For the second egg, I created an ombre style (color fading from light to dark) egg.

1. Dip the entire egg into a color (red) and immediately remove. Pat with a paper towel.

2. With your fingers or tongs, hold 3/4 of the egg into the dye for about 30 seconds, then lift out slightly so 1/2 the egg is in the dye. Hold in place for 60 seconds.

3. To finish the ombre look, hold 1/4 of the egg in the color for a few more minutes to get the darkest hue.

Egg 3

To achieve a bold, deep color, I suggest using a few more drops of food coloring and leaving the egg in the dye for a few minutes. I’ve tried this when using a box, and it never worked, but with the food coloring, I was able to get a really dark hue. Take a look at these two…

This two-toned blue egg was created with a quick dip for one side, while the other was left in for about 5-7 minutes.

This intense red egg was completely submerged in the food coloring dye for about 5-7 minutes.

My little lady got involved in the process too… It was fun. Not every egg turned out perfect, but that is the joy of it, right?!

I think our Easter eggs came out pretty good…

It was fun to mix colors, which then created new colors. Some even created a plaid pattern.

They are so colorful and so much more vivacious than the results from a typical box you can buy.

Want to save this project and/or pin it for later use? Hereâ€™s a quick graphic to remember the stepsâ€¦

Enjoy and Happy Easter Egg Decorating!

Want another great idea for egg decorating? Try my melted crayon idea…

Disclosure: This post is part of a social shopper marketing insight campaign with Pollinate Media Group and All You Magazine, but as always all opinions are 100% my own. #pmedia #lifeforless http://my-disclosur.es/OBsstV

DIY: Wood Honeycomb Shelves

Written by Jenna on April 2, 2014. Posted in DIY, Shelving. 18 Comments on DIY: Wood Honeycomb Shelves

Even though we veered away from the original design for the revamped shared kids space, my son had his heart set on honeycomb shelves after I showed him the Land of Nod style. And since this mama can’t let her boy down, I had to pull through.

But instead of buying, what did I do? DIYed them, of course. After a little research & this post by A Beautiful Mess, I was confident to move forward.

Not only are these honeycomb / hexagon shelves functional, the whole ensemble is like a piece of art. And instead of painting the shelves a color or staining them a traditional wood finish, I chose an interesting blue hue which is in-trend and spot on with the other tones that I’ve introduced into the room.

Take a look…

The entire shelf composition runs the length of the twin bed, which is about 80″ long, and makes the entire wall truly come alive. This “installation” also parallels with my Lowe’s Creative challenge project for this month which focuses on introducing the submerged color trend of watery, cool blue hues into a project. With the size + interesting finish, this project is by far one of my favorites!

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Before we move forward, it has to be said that this project was a big challenge, but the bigger the venture, the better the result. I don’t often do large-scale woodworking projects and at times I thought it was going to be a big F-A-I-L, but in the end the honeycomb shelves MAKE THE ROOM. Take Away? Don’t be afraid to challenge yourself. Push through because in the end, it’ll be worth it!

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Like usual, before starting a larger scale project, I sketched out my idea and figured out the supplies I needed. This was the first sketch…

And then the shelves ended up evolving into this layout instead so not all of the shelves are actually attached…

Supplies I used:

(7) 1″ x 6″ x 6′ long pieces of wood – each shelf took approximately (1) board
1-1/2″ wood screws
1-1/2″ corner brackets
Plastic toggle anchors
Stain or Paint – depending on how you want to finish the shelf surface
Other supplies: miter saw, tape measure, drill, sander, level, pencil

To save on time, I often have my wood cut while at shopping at Lowe’s, but for this project, I cut it at home because of the quantity needed + the angles.

Here are the steps I took:

1. I set the miter saw to 30 degrees and never touched the saw again for the entire project. This angle is crucial so each of the 6 pieces will make the perfect hexagon shape. I approximated that I wanted each finished shelf to be an overall dimension of about 14″ x 14″, and chose the length of 7″ for the long side of each piece.

After marking the wood with my tape measure + pencil, I made the first cut using the miter saw. Then I flipped the piece of wood over to make the second angled cut.

This is what the first piece looked like when cut.

Then I cut about 42 more…

2. Before taking the next steps of attaching each piece to make the shelves, I layed all the pieces out to see how they’d actually go together.

3. Then we were ready to chug forward and attach these bad boys…

The first hexagon box was created using 6 pieces and all the angles faced each other. It’s best to stand them up on their sides, so the floor acts like the wall. The Mister (who was a huge part of this project as well) and I actually moved from the carpet to a flat, hard surface so the pieces would lay flat. The carpet was too cushy.

TIP: You must use wood screws for this project. We started out with screws, but it wasn’t working right (because we didn’t pre-drill), then changed over to using nails. BIG MISTAKE.

Once you have the angled wood pieces in position, first pre-drill the holes, then drill in the wood screws. If you don’t pre-drill the holes, the wood will probably split, which is what happened to us atfirst. Using a nail won’t work because they’ll pull out and the overall shelf won’t be stable / sturdy. Believe me, these are all lessons we learned along the way!

4. When the first box is complete, you can either be done or add on to it to create a multi-honeycomb shelf like ours. If you continue adding on to the first hexagon, you’ll use one side of the original hexagon to create the second hexagon. This time though, the cut angles won’t touch each other, but instead overlap. I’ll be honest, it does get tricky at this point and the shelves become a big jigsaw puzzle. We ended up with (1) 3 box shelf, (1) 2 box shelf, and (1) stand alone shelf.

Once all the shelves were screwed together, we were ready for the next steps… finish the surface + install.

It took me some time to determine how I wanted to finish the shelves. At first I was going to paint them, but then steered away because I wanted to see the wood grain shine through. That meant stain. But, what stain? In the end, I chose a gray / blue water-based stain by Minwax. The submerged color seemed perfect with the other hues in the room and was ideal with what’s on-trend right now.

5. First, I gave the edges and all the surfaces a good sanding with my orbital sander. Then using a rag, I applied the wood stain and almost instantly wiped it away so very little actually soaked into the wood. Because of this, the drying time was very quick.

6. About a day later, the shelves were ready to install. I first attached the metal angle brackets to the shelves. Then I determined the height + positioning of where the shelves would be hung.

Next, the Mister + I marked the holes through the brackets and pre-drilled the holes into the wall. As with hanging anything, I always love using plastic toggle drywall anchors (I shared a pic recently on Instagram).

Once the anchors were in each hole, we repositioned the shelves in place and screwed them in using a drill + screw. It’s key to use a level as well so the shelf doesn’t get installed crooked!

At this point, the shelves were almost done…

I loved the look of the blue shelves against the lighter gray walls, but I still wanted to make them pop. To do so, I chose to paint the front edge of the shelves a white color which matches the moulding throughout the room. Two coats later with a small, flat brush did the trick.

Lastly, so the metal brackets didn’t stand out so much, I painted those as well using the wall paint color.

And then they were finally complete!

Love the under-the-bed wood rolling carts? I shared the tutorial on how to make them earlier this week.

These shelves are perfect to fill with books, toys in containers, and any fun thing(s) to display.

And here is a pretty pinnable picture if you want to remember this project for a later date…

So what do you think?

Do you like the honeycomb / hexagon look? Have you incorporated this new trend into your home? What has been your most difficult DIY project endeavour?

To gather even more unique, fun, and creative ideas for your indoor and outdoor Spring spaces, I would definitely suggest downloading the Loweâ€™s Creative Ideas app on your iphone and/or ipad. Iâ€™m always checking out the FREE app for great seasonal + do-it-yourself inspiration.

Also consider following Loweâ€™s on Facebook, Pinterest, and Instagram as well.

Disclosure: I am part of the Loweâ€™s Creative Team and was provided with a Loweâ€™s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!

DIY: Rolling Underbed Wood Storage Cart

Written by Jenna on March 31, 2014. Posted in DIY, Storage. 14 Comments on DIY: Rolling Underbed Wood Storage Cart

I’ve been busy-busy on finishing up the details for my boys room makeover. This room has taken quite the turn from it originally being a boy/girl, sister/brother shared bedroom, to a full-on boy hangout haven! Even though my little guy is only 7 (just shy of 8), I feel it’s a space he can grow with (until I get my hands on it for another makeover, hehe).

So my latest and greatest DIY project in the room is something that holds stuff that I often refer to as the ‘bane of my existence’… TOYS. Specifically, the little, itty bitty toys like Legos and Kinex that somehow always end up under my feet giving me a great big ‘OW’.

Often under my kids’ bed is the ‘stuffing place’ where things are put that don’t have a home. When I do a big cleaning, I never know what I will find… Do you have that problem? Please tell me yes and reassure me that I’m not the only one. My solution to a neat under-bed space? Make something to take up the space so there is no room to stuff!

Thus the creation of these rolling underbed wood storage carts.

Pretty + Functional! I’m in heaven.

Want to know how to make them? Let’s Go!

They are really easy & super inexpensive. Actually after making them, I did a quick search online (not thinking I’d find anything similar) and saw similar styles for a minimum of $40… Crazy that mine cost about $10/each to make.

Supplies You’ll Need:

for a 24″ x 24″ box (buy more or less if you want to change the size)

(2) 1″ x 6″ x 24″ long piece of wood
(2) 1″ x 6″ x 22.5″ long piece of wood
(4) 1.5″ rolling wheels
(1) 24″ x 24″ piece of 1/4″ plywood
1.5″ long wood nails
3/4″ long wood nails
optional: paint, chalkpaint, 1/2″ thick rope

Before buying the supplies, I determined that the size of rolling wood carts would be 24″ x 24″ and (2) under the twin bed would fit perfectly leaving some additional space for other awkward toys (like my little guys plastic skateboard ramp). Here is a sketch I did before heading to the store…

Note: a 1″ x 6″ is actually 3/4″ x 5-1/2″. To make a perfect 24″ x 24″ square box, (2) sides were cut to 22.5″ long.

Here are the steps I took:

1. Using the 1.5″ long wood nails, I attached the 24″ piece to the 22.5″ long piece. I first added a dab of wood glue, then followed it with (3) nails.

2. I continued attaching the other wood pieces so the box was created…

I’m not sure why my little girl in the background is holding a coffee cup, but rest assured she wasn’t drinking it. At least I hope she wasn’t…

3. Once the 4 sides were put together, I attached the 24″ x 24″ plywood using 3/4″ long wood nails. About 4 nails per side should be enough to make it sturdy.

4. The (4) wheels were next… Using 3/4″ screws, I attached a wheel to each corner.

The result of the rolling cart thus far…

The beauty of this wood cart is that it doesn’t have to be only for under the bed. Change the size – make it taller or less wide – and use them in the living room for toys, blankets, or DVDs. How about in the garage for tools? Or in the craft room for supplies? There are so many ways, so many uses!

To jazz up the rolling cart, I thought it would be neat + easy to add a fun + functional rope pull.

But first, I gave the overall cart a good sanding. Kids + Splinters aren’t pretty…

Yes I sometimes DIY with a leopard scarf…

And rest assured after posing for this pic, I put my eye protection on. Promise!

Now onto the rope.

5. In the center of one side, towards the top, I drilled a hole slightly larger than 1/2″.

6. I then cut a piece of rope about 12″ long (I think, I actually eyed it and didn’t really measure) and threaded it through the hole and tied it on both sides.

The rope was a bit expensive – I think this roll was about $8 – but I plan on using it for another project, so it made sense. You don’t really need rope if you don’t have it on hand. Instead try a piece of cabinet hardware or something you already have in the home.

7. Once the rope was in, I gave the overall wood surface a quick dry-brush paint application. One quick, imperfect coat and it was almost complete.

8. To jazz the cart up one more step, I added a chalkboard front using chalkboard paint. Using my eye, no measuring tape, I created a box with painters tape and painted 3 coats of the chalkboard paint.

9. Right after the last coat was brushed on, I had a little helper take off the painters tape while the paint was still wet.

Look at that beautiful straight line…

And the rolling wood carts were complete!

Check out the honeycomb shelves… My longest, most difficult project yet, but I’m in love. More to come on those later this week!

BTW, you can see more of that fabulous wallpaper on the wall to the left in a recent post I shared.

So what do you think? Could these wood carts be something you could use in your home? Each were about $10 to make and both took about a total of an hour (maybe a little more) to make. Not too bad!

What are your favorite toy storage solutions? What are your favorite under-the-bed storage solutions?

Creating Colorful Easter Eggs with Melted Crayons

Written by Jenna on March 18, 2014. Posted in Craft, DIY, Easter, Holiday. 60 Comments on Creating Colorful Easter Eggs with Melted Crayons

In just about a month, another Easter will be upon us. Along with focusing on the importance of Easter, creating colorful eggs is often a tradition that many kids enjoy as the holiday approaches, mine included! A basket filled with eggs of varying hues can make a gorgeous centerpiece and is the ideal reminder that Spring is on it’s way – I hope.

A new and unique alternative idea that you may want to try this year is to use crayons instead of the traditional food coloring or store-bought dye kits. I have to tell you, the result will be unexpectedly awesome! Have you ever felt that the traditional food coloring or dyes don’t create an intense enough color? Yes, you can leave the eggs in the dye filled cup for hours, but what child wants to wait that long? Mine certainly don’t… With the technique of using melted crayons, the color can be as bright (or subtle) as you’d like and the result is instant…

Here are the steps I took with my kids to create Colorful Easter Eggs Using Melted Crayons…

Supplies Needed:

Eggs (steps to hard boil the eggs are below)
A colorful collection of crayons

To start off…

1.Put the eggs in a pot and fill the pot with cold water so it covers the eggs about 1-2″.

2.Once the eggs come to a full boil, remove the pot from the stove and cover for 12 minutes (so they create a hard-boiled egg).

3.Carefully remove the eggs from the pot and let them stand for about 1-2 minutes (the eggs will be very hot, so be sure to use tongs when removing them from the pot).

Here comes the fun part…

4. Using crayons, start drawing on your egg. Be creative. Get the kids involved. It’s a lot of fun to try different patterns and to mix the colors. For our eggs, I used one color as the base, then added another color on top. I smudged in the background hue which gave a fun, swirly look.

Because of the hot exterior of the egg, the crayon will melt on the egg’s surface. Once your masterpiece is finished, gently place the egg into the original egg holder and place it into the refrigerator. After a few minutes they will be cool and the decorated eggs can be handled and displayed as you’d like.

They’ll make a beautiful addition to any centerpiece – paired with other Easter decorations or simply on their own.

Want to save it and/or pin it for later use? Here’s a quick graphic to remember the steps…

Enjoy and Happy Easter Egg Decorating!

How-To Hang Wallpaper Like a Pro!

Written by Jenna on March 11, 2014. Posted in DIY, Wallpaper. 7 Comments on How-To Hang Wallpaper Like a Pro!

If you follow me on Instagram – my favorite place on the web to share snippets throughout my day – then you know I had a busy weekend wallpapering. The kids room took a design turn after we found out a few weeks ago that baby #3 is going to be a girl. In the end, as a family, we decided the kids will stay in the rooms they are currently in and the girls will eventually share a room once the baby is ready to move in. So what does that mean?? Design changes! The room that was going to be a shared boy / girl room was no longer needed. Since we had already started on the transformation for my little guy, it meant we had to continue chugging along. And let me tell ya, he’s a happy camper!

After choosing a new paint color (Benjamin Moore Hazy Skies) that I was very unsure of, because it was way lighter of a color than I’m used to, I am now thrilled with the decision. Why? Because I’ve been adding in colors in other ways. Layers, my friends! Layers are huge and in a kids room, books and toys add an amazing pop! BUT, I was in need of more. Yes more! And that more resulted in a fun + unique wallpaper for the focal window wall that instantly turned the entire 12′ width into a photo gallery wall…

How fun is that?! And before we go any further, I want to give you a peak at the before and after…

I want to show you more of the room because it’s turning out pretty fantastic, but I can’t. That’s to come – pinky swear!

This incredible wallpaper is made by Taylor & Wood through Graham & Brown and it truly brings a wall to life. I knew I wanted to do something fun on this focal wall. Originally I was thinking a stencil, but this is way better. So let’s jump right into how I installed it…

How-To Hang Wallpaper… LIKE A PRO!

Similar to the last time I hung wallpaper in the powder room, this paper was also NOT pre-pasted (wallpaper that has paste and is activated with only water). After wallpapering a few areas in my home, I have found that higher-quality wallpapers typically are not pre-pasted, so instead a paste has to be added. I actually think the paste is easier to use than putting the paper through water. I wrote a tutorial a long time ago on How-To Hang Prepasted Wallpaper, if you want to check that out.

Supplies:

Wallpaper
Wallpaper Paste
Smoothing Took
Sharp Razor or blade
Other handy tools for wallpapering are: a tape measure, a laser level, a pencil

The Steps:

1. To start off, I found it best to measure the wall and cut a piece of wallpaper the length of the wall + an additional 6-8″ for extra at the top (ceiling) and bottom (floor).

a little helper is always fun + keeps you entertained!

2. I wasn’t worried about centering the paper on the wall for this project (in the powder room I did) and started at the left most edge of the wall. When hanging wallpaper, I find it best to add the best directly to the wall, THEN add the paper. I used a cheap $1 brush to add enough paste to cover the width of the wallpaper (not the entire wall).

3. Once the paste is in place, then I started at the ceiling (adding about 2-3″ extra paper to trim), I hung the paper making sure to match the seam of the adjacent paper. NEVER overlap the paper.

4. When the paper initially adheres to the wall, there are always bumps and wrinkles. No worries. Simply smooth them out with the plastic smoothing tool. Itâ€™s best to start at the top and move down the wall, as well as from the center of the paper and smooth out towards the edges. You want to press firmly, but not too hard so all the glue seeps out. Alittle glue seepage is okay and expected.

5. Cutting around windows, doors, and outlets. Thought to be tricky, but really not. For the large window, I added the paste to the wall. Then I hung the paper temporarily (very lightly) and trimmed the paper around the window using a scissor, leaving about 2 extra inches for trimming. Once I cut the paper, THEN I went back and adhered the wallpaper to the wall properly.

Here is a picture of me trimming the wallpaper around an outlet. I used a sharp razor, cutting a small hole at the outlet and trimmed so the entire outlet was exposed. The paper was wrinkled, but I smoothed it out after the hole was cut.

CONFESSION: totally my opinion... Wallpaper is kind of like giving birth (that’s all I thought about throughout the process). Going into it, your excited and ready to do “the work”. You’re in the midst of it cheering yourself on. Then there are some snags along the way and you start to get frustrated and defeated. The end is almost near. You’re exhausted and your patience is done. AND it’s over. All is beautiful and you can sit back and relax. After a few days, the memories start to fade and within no time, you think back that it wasn’t so bad after all. Until the next time…

Anyway, let’s move on. Obviously you know where this prego girls head is.

Here are some pictures mid-project (the moments when exhaustion started to set in).

And the result once finished. The part of enjoyment…

I started to jazz up the wall by hanging a few real picture frames over the “frames”. It started to bring in some color and dimension! I used a few pieces of command strips to keep the frames in place instead of nailing them to the wall.

We (meaning my son + I) have a lot more ideas for making this wall even better. In the meantime though (after hours of joyous wallpaper hanging) a few pictures and frames did the trick for fun.

I even added some hooks for hanging a few hats and metals.

So there you have it. A 2 in 1. A tutorial on how-to hang wallpaper + a fun & unique way to create an instant photo gallery wall. A LOT more is happening in this room to make it suit the style of my little guy. More to come soon…

Master Bedroom: Picture Gallery Wall

Written by Jenna on February 24, 2014. Posted in DIY, Photo Gallery Walls, Room Reveal. 6 Comments on Master Bedroom: Picture Gallery Wall

One topic on the blog that I’ve shared inspiration on the most times, have received the most pins, and gets the most questions + comments, is creating a gallery wall.

Gallery walls are one of my most favorite design elements in a home because it tells so much. Whether putting together a collection of a few large black and white family photos or creating a wall from wall edge to wall edge filled with colorful instagram images + momentos from your travels, a gallery wall is an expression of who you and your family are; truly the most important part of creating a meaningful home.

As the plans for my master bedroom were originally coming together, I knew I wanted to relocate the TV and create a gallery wall opposite of the bed. The room just called for it. It asked to have more photos. I love being surrounded by photos, artwork, and elements that are most special to me. In the bedroom, it makes the most sense.

The opposite of the bed used to have a large mirror (which was part of a bedroom matching set that I broke up) and the TV mounted to the side with a table underneath. Very plain jane. The space certainly didn’t reflect ‘us’.

We removed the wall-mounted TV and the mirror, and placed the TV on top of the dresser. The dresser, which is about 5′ long has a lot of surface space, so in addition to the TV, I added in one of my all-time favorite lamps that I hadn’t found the right home for since we moved here. It’s a purchase from Crate and Barrel years ago and used to be in our previous home’s guest room. I’m so happy to have found such a prominent place for it! #happygal

These two elements – the TV and the lamp – were the perfect size, and balance each other well. The TV isn’t the focal point anymore and with the pictures that are about to be mounted on the wall, the TV will “disappear” and/or appear as just another frame on the wall.

As for the art / pictures on the wall, nothing was purchased. ALL came from other areas around my home or my storage closet with all my extra goodies. I wasn’t worried about the color of the frames or the images themselves, I just wanted only things that were important to us. This is the wall we wake up to and see every morning… It’s a great way to start the day (most days).

I don’t have too many in-progress pictures because I was so in-the-moment, but I started the gallery wall with the square mirror. Part of it is actually behind the TV, so the TV overlaps it, which creates a shadow = depth. Then I continued with the surrounding pictures – the square pictures above (Norman Rockwell prints) and the black and white Fallingwater image.

As the wall continued, it started to take form, but it wasn’t smooth as butter. Creating a gallery wall takes time, planning, and most likely a few mishaps before it’s just right! Believe me, I didn’t snap my fingers and say Presto, to have it all complete in 5 minutes. It definitely took a few days and a few moves. As I’m working on a big project, especially something like a gallery wall, I like to do it and then take a step back to reflect.

After hanging most of the images and reflecting on it, I realized something was off. Many of the frames were too in line and not overlapping enough. To create a successfully balanced gallery wall, I feel it’s important to have a mix of larger and smaller pieces, along with them being staggered / overlapping.

I took a picture of why I didn’t feel this 1st attempt wasn’t right…

And take a look at the change after a few adjustments / moves…

Many of the pieces of art were given to me and a few are store-bought finds.

> The sepia image of the flower was in our previous powder room and purchased at Homegoods. It’s actually part of a pair, but I broke them up.

> The black and white image above is a charcoal drawing of a house that the Mister drew. He’s so talented!

> The pretty sunset image in the larger white frame to the right used to be in my daughter’s room, but I stole it 🙂

> Continuing to the right, the 2 square images are Norman Rockwell prints – Day in the Life of a Little Boy + Day in the Life of a Little Girl. They remind us so much of our little kids.

More of the wall…

> To the right of the Norman Rockwell images is a black and white picture of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater that was gifted to my husband for his graduation. We were both Architecture majors in college, so it means a lot to us.

> The gold framed image at the top is an oil painting of Paris gifted to me after my Mom and I took a trip there 10 years ago.

> The other gold framed oil painting is a random picture that was given to me from my parents (or maybe I just took it from their house – can’t remember)

> In the black frame below are my little boys handprints – my first mother’s day gift.

The rest of the wall…

> The white framed ballerina piece of art was recently given to me by the talented Donna Talley, stylist and producer for BHG. She’s been a very special person in my life as of late! She has provided me with some amazing opportunities.

> The other white framed image above is another charcoal work by my husband of Falling Water.

The wall in it’s entirety…

Now that I’ve shared the result of the entire wall, I thought it would be helpful to show you where I started (with the mirror #1) and how it took shape.

Some tips for creating a gallery wall:

Start with one framed picture and continue laying out the wall off of it. Laying out the gallery wall on the floor first can also be helpful. I did that on this previous wall I created…

Stagger the framed pictures instead of laying them out in one line.
Overlap framed pictures to give depth.
Create balance with a variety of larger and small pictures

For more ideas + inspiration, visit this previous posts:

Creating a Photo Wall Display
Useful Ideas and Layouts to Create a Photo Gallery Wall
Ideas + Solutions for the Wall Behind the TV

If you want to check out my EASY tip on hanging a picture or artwork, check out this post:
The Best Tip to Hang a Picture

Let me show you the rest of the wall.

The view as we enter our bedroom with lots of beautiful light filtering in…

The before, in-progress, and after is pretty different. I’m so happy with the transformation because it’s a space I created that truly reflects us!

The gallery wall… the final project before the big reveal.

Even though you’ve pretty much seen the entire room throughout all the DIY projects that I’ve shared over the past few weeks, the final reveal is coming later this week!

Let There Be Light: How to Make a Pendant Fixture

Written by Jenna on February 13, 2014. Posted in DIY, lighting. 2 Comments on Let There Be Light: How to Make a Pendant Fixture

You may have noticed a pretty little pendant in some of the pictures I’ve been sharing of projects throughout the progress of my master bedroom revamp. Guess what, I made it. Well kind of.

So I didn’t actually make the fabulous fixture, but I did electrify it so it could work as a light. The fixture I am referring to is the capiz hanging pendant from World Market, one of my favorite resources for interior decor. I had originally intended on using the pendant on our ceiling fan. I’m not crazy that we have a fan in our room instead of an amazing chandelier. But since it gets super hot during the summer months and the Mister vetoed the removal of the fan, it simply IS. So making the best of it, I had planned on adding the pretty pendant during the winter when the fan isn’t in use. WELL, the size and the mounting didn’t work once I had it in hand, so instead I thought it would make for an interesting light at my newly revamped desk. So to make this pendant glow and actually function as a light, I purchased a light kit from Home Depot (I’m a Lowe’s gal through and through, but they didn’t have the parts that I needed). For this project, these are the supplies I used:

Decorative Pendant (try a mason jar or an unconventional fixture to use as a light)
Light Kit
8′ length of extra wire
Decorative Chain
Wire Cutter
Screw Driver

Here are the steps I took to make this pretty pendant into an actual light… In all the light kits I found, the wire cord length was only 8′, but I needed it to be 16′ long. Solution: I purchased the light kit + extra wire that Home Depot cut for me, which cost an additional $3 for the extra 8′ of length. 1. At home, I first connected the (2) 8′ lengths of wire. First, using a wire cutter I cut about 1/2″ of casing off one end to expose the wires inside. 2. Then I cut the ends off the other 8′ length wire. So I was left with 4 exposed wire ends. 3. I connected (2) ends together and (2) ends together, and then sealed them with electrical tape. It doesn’t matter what end goes with what end. These steps are very easy and take minutes to do. Depending on how long of a pendant you want, you might be able to skip right over the steps above and start with the following steps of connecting the wires to the socket. 1. Start off by removing the cardboard and the socket shell. Then create an Underwriter’s Knot with the end of your wires. This type of knot will prevent the wire from loosening inside the socket. To make this type of knot, first separate the wires, form a large loop with each wire, and thread the end of each wire through the other loop. Complete the knot by pulling the ends of the wires so the knot will tighten. 2. With your fingers, twist the wire strands together to form a partial loop. Then wrap each wire clockwise around the socket terminals (the inside of the screw). Then tighten the terminal with a screwdriver. 3. Once the wires are secured and tightened into the terminals, slip on the cardboard sleeve (YES, LEAVE THE CARDBOARD ON), and put the socket shell back into position. 4. Let there be light! For the bulb, I used an old fashion style that I found at Lowe’s (like this one). They give such a great look since the bulb is slightly exposed. FYI, these style light bulbs won’t be available much longer because the US in no longer producing or importing filament bulbs. So grab em’ while you can! Once the wiring was complete, I added the decorative chain… Here’s a close up. Isn’t it pretty?! And here’s how the new pendant looks in the room… (psst… I still have to cover the black electrical tape where I connected the 2 wires) I’m in love. And surrounded by my newly painted desk + my newly custom-made (for little $$$) window panels, I’m a happy girl! The bulb is only 40 watts, so it gives a beautiful glow when lit. Definitely nice for the evening while watching TV. And I’ll tell you, I’ve been spending alot more R + R time in my room lately! I’m just loving the space. Next area of the space to show you… The Galley Wall! And then the final reveal. If you want to see another lamp project of mine, you can check it out here when I guest posted at my friend Lindsay’s blog, Makely Home.

Are you a fan of shell style light fixtures? Have you ever made something/anything into a light? If not, what do you wish you could electrify?