DIY – Page 6 – Jenna Burger Design LLC – Interior Design & Architectural Consulting

Details + Hardware + Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}

Written by Jenna on October 15, 2014. Posted in Accessories, DIY, Do-It-Yourself, Furniture, Styling. 10 Comments on Details + Hardware + Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}

Yes, the paint color is unexpected, but adding a few other unique details to the china cabinet makeover has really made it a one-of-a-kind, perfect piece (in my eyes).

Last week I finished the most tedious part of the makeover which was painting the cabinet. It took a few days and lots of patience, but the effort was absolutely worth the result in my book! Once the cabinet was complete and dry, I started styling the interior. After living with it for a few days (and sharing a peak on IG), I knew it needed something. I loved the overall dramatic color, but I did want to pare it down a bit and decided to add a special something to the back + this bad boy needed some hardware! Take a look…

Most of my china dishes and platters are plain white (with simple detailing on the edges) so I thought sitting against a dark background they’d look great. Unfortunately though, the interior seemed kind of cavernous, so bringing in something lighter for the back of the cabinet made sense. I found this pretty patterned contact paper and thought it would be the ideal addition to lighten and brighten the cabinet.

Details.

This is a similar project/process to when I added the geometric contact paper to my media cabinet…

After finding the center of the cabinet, I started off by adding the contact paper at the top edge. I then slowly peeled off the backing, section by section, and adhered the paper to the cabinet back while pushing out the air bubbles with my hand.

I also made sure it was vertically plumb so it was hung straight.

Once I was towards the bottom, I left about an 1-2″ extra and cut the contact paper with scissors. I followed that by using a straight edge blade and trimmed the paper so it fit perfectly at the bottom. I also did the same at the top…

Once the center panel was done, I added the self-adhesive paper to the other two sides. In the end, just being honest, there were a few air bubbles that I could not get out. O well, it’s not perfect… The dishes and layered accessories will hide those messy spots.

Once that was complete, I was able to accessorize! But before that, I want to show you what I did with the hardware.

Hardware.

Remember at the beginning of this project I wasn’t sure what to do with the hardware… go with new or use what was original? Well I decided on new. Why? 2 reasons. (1) Some of the hardware was missing – good reason for new, right? (2) I really wanted this piece to be a mix of old and new. I adore the traditional lines of this cabinet (old), yet the color and the added details are more modern (new)… thus my style, Classic Eclectic!

For the hardware, I wanted a bit bling-bling, but on a budget. On one of my daily trips to Lowe’s, I found these beautiful octagonal shaped knobs. I really wanted a brass finish, but they didn’t have them, but for $3 +/- a knob, I couldn’t leave them. So I painted them…

Using brass paint (liquid brass gilding, to be exact) that I had from another project, I painted them using a small brush. It dried within minutes and this unique detail was added to the cabinet.

Check out the before and after of the hardware…

As I shared in the first post [prepping & sanding], I removed the existing hardware before getting started on the makeover. To hide the holes that were on the door fronts, I used wood filler and then sanded once it was dry. The holes that are on the sections that look like drawers, but really aren’t, remained and that is where the new knobs were installed.

What a change, right?!

Styling.

The last part of the makeover was beautifying it with all my stuff… my treasures! Instead of showcasing my china + bowls + glasses the traditional way – by the set (plate/dish/bowl/cup) – I went for a more casual, non-symmetrical route of stacking the plates and dishes, and ‘displaying’ the glasses in groups. This allowed me to maximize the space provided, plus achieve a simpler, less tailored look.

When I started the styling process, I began with the large stack of dinner plates and because they were the heaviest (physically and visually), I put those on the bottom shelf. Then on the middle shelf on the other side, I added in some other random larger + smaller plates and stacked a few glass bowls on top. After adding in some wine glasses (groups of 3 or 6 looked best) on the each side , I stepped back and it looked like this…

I then added in some more pieces to balance out what I had started with. Basically, the plates and glasses are mixed together on each side. Neither side is weighted with only plates and/or only glasses.

Achieving balance is key to successful styling or a successful visual vignette!

I saved the center section of the top cabinet for serving pieces, platters, and bowls. I centered some of the elements, which gives a traditional feel, but other elements are off-center which brings a casual, organic feel.

After adding, editing, moving, and contemplating, it was finished. Styling can be a little tricky, but go with what feels/looks right.

For those not-so-pretty pieces or one-offs, I stored them in the closed section below. I love space with doors… perfect for the not-to-seen decor.

Confession time… I tried getting a picture of the overall styled cabinet, but it was impossible without capturing the reflection as well. I’m not the best photographer, but I try 🙂

I adore how the dining space is coming together and looks so beautiful for Fall…

What a transformation, right?! Now that the cabinet is styled, it’s 99% complete. The next post on this china cabinet makeover will be the reveal – yay! Coming Soon…

Follow along on this makeover with these other posts
Backstory + Choosing a Color
Prepping & Sanding Wood Furniture
Why & How to Prime Wood Furniture
Tips + Tricks to Painting Wood Furniture
Accessories, Details, & Styling {China Cabinet Makeover}

Coming up (still to do)
China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

How-To Paint Wood Furniture

Written by Jenna on October 9, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 36 Comments on How-To Paint Wood Furniture

Prep is done.

Sanding is complete. >>> [tutorial here]

Priming is finished. >>> [tutorial here]

Now on to the painting. This was definitely the longest + most tedious part of the makeover, but absolutely the most important step to focus on. With all the work that has gone in to prepping this cabinet, or any piece of furniture for that matter, painting it right really makes all the difference in the world to achieve a nice looking end product.

This post is completely dedicated to sharing the steps I took + tips & tricks on how-to successfully paint wood furniture.

As I’ve explained and stressed in the previous two posts, the prep work + priming is very important before paint is applied. To achieve a successful end result, a primer is a must. For this project, I used Glidden Gripper primer (a picture of it + more details can be found in the last post). Once the primer is dry, which typically takes little time (about a day), painting can begin.

Before Painting.

The Magic Formula. One of my secrets for painting wood furniture is to use floetrol (<- affiliate link). With all furniture painting projects, I always add my favorite â€œformulaâ€ to eliminate brushstrokes. It works like a charm to achieve a clean, brushstroke-free surface! (And I wasnâ€™t even paid to say that â€“ I truly just love it ;)

The Brush. The brush used for painting really does make a difference. I always use Purdy brushes because they truly make for an easier, better painting result. Yes they are expensive, but it’s worth the cost. Most of the time I use a new brush when starting a project. (Again, I wasn’t paid to say that)

The Color.

The paint color I chose for this cabinet makeover is Red Red Rose by Glidden.

How-To Paint Wood Furniture.

When painting furniture, like this china cabinet, I started on one side of the base cabinet and continued across to the other side while working in small sections. I always continually look at what was just painted to check for drips, which you want to avoid as much as possible!

Typically I will add paint to the overall surface and then go back to smooth it out so all the strokes are in one direction (usually you want to follow the grain of the wood, but it’s not a must since with paint you don’t see the grain).

Even if you try to avoid them, drips are normal. To deal with those nasty, inevitable paint drips, I sand them off once they are completely dry. Using an orbital sander is easiest, but sanding the spot by hand also works. If you catch the drip before it’s dry, then go over it with your paint brush to smooth it out.

I didn’t take a picture of me sanding that drip, but here is one from another section of the cabinet…

Once the paint was dry, I lightly went over the drip to smooth out the section of cabinet.

Another issue I encountered which I didn’t like was the result of the buffet top once the first coat of paint was on. I guess when I added the primer, I didn’t continue my brush stroke from on side to the other, so the top surface looked bumpy. Once the first coat of paint was dry, I lightly sanded the surface. This left the top very smooth and ready for coat #2.

Coat #2

In all the top got about 3-4 coats. All the other areas of the cabinet got 3 coats. Because of the intense color 2 coats wasn’t enough.

Here are some more outtakes while painting…

The cabinet fronts.

The cabinet top.

The base cabinet after one coat.

I will tell you, painting the cabinet took a good 3 solid days of off and on work. It was tiring, but well worth it in the end. Most of the painting took place at night after the kiddos went to bed which is why the coloring of the cabinet in the pictures looks a bit off.

Here’s a peak at what was my crazy life for a few days. Just keeping it real…

Once every surface, nook, and cranny were done, it was time to add a coat of polyurethane.

Applying polyurethane is similar to primer… a little goes a long way. It’s also a lot thinner than paint, so it can easily run creating those annoying drips. Applying a light coat and fanning it over the surface is best. It goes on as a white milky liquid, but as you work it into the surface it will be come clear. And of course it dries clear.

For this cabinet, I used a semi-gloss polyurethane.

And then it was done.

Well almost. The painting is complete, but there are still some details that I need to work on, like the hardware and another secret surprise.

But back to the painting result, here are a few closeups…

You see that one piece of hardware on there? I couldn’t resist giving you a peak at what it will look like once it’s all done.

Next up… styling this pretty gal. Here’s a peak at the start of the process…

Let’s rewind and take a look at where I started and the progress I’ve made.

Not too shabby. More to come. Stay tuned.

Check out the >>> FINAL REVEAL

Fall Tablescape with Gourds Galore

Written by Jenna on October 7, 2014. Posted in Autumn, DIY, Fall. 3 Comments on Fall Tablescape with Gourds Galore

Howdy folks! Fall is in full-swing in northern New York and as we’ve been enjoying the colorful foilage (did you see how we spent our weekend? I posted a peak on IG) , I’m finally feeling the urge to turn the house over for the season. I still have my hands filled caring for my little 3 month old + transforming my latest Craigslist find, but that hasn’t stopped me from adding in a few Fall touches. My perfect spot for the ideal seasonal setup… the dining table.

Alas, this years Fall Tablescape.

Filled with gourds, mums, pinecones, and a few of my go-to styling / decor favorites, my table is all set for the season and will lead us right into our Thanksgiving feast. Don’t you just love when one thing works for multiple purposes + occasions?!

And check out the cute box. I made it. Details on that in a bit…

Everything on my table for Fall is from Lowes, my favorite big box store because it’s my go-to spot for everything I need to build, paint, make, and decorate. Seriously! When this month’s challenge came and it was focused around Fall decorating {mums + ghords}, the dining table was just the spot. And you know I love creating a pretty centerpiece (this seasonal favorite has been pinned over 88,000 times)!

So we all know, I’m a mush for trays. Almost every surface around my home has a tray. Why? Because they are easy to move. Because they’re pretty. Because they create the most perfect horizontal vignette. So this years seasonal tablescape had to have a tray! And an easy one to make, of course.

How-To Build a Wood Tray

My cut list:

(2) 1″ x 4″ x 48″ long
(1) 1″ x 8″ 48″ long
(2) 1″ x 4″ x length TBD (explained in tutorial below)
stain (I used Minwax Special Walnut)
(2) cup pulls (kitchen style drawer pulls work great – I got mine for $3+ in the hardware section of Lowe’s)

1. I decided the length of my tray would be 48″ finished and I determined this according to the length of my table. When people are sitting at the table, the tray will probably be moved, but it doesn’t have to. At 48″ long, there is still plenty of room for people to fit around the table & have enough space at their seat. That being said, if you want to make a similar try, it can be any size you’d like.

I made a mark for my cut and used my circular saw to cut the first piece.

2. Then (without measuring) I layed the 1″ x 4″ x 48″ cut piece onto the uncut piece and marked where to make the cut #2. Following that, I cut the 1″ x 8″ piece (for the bottom) the same way.

3. Using 1″ wood nails (which have a small head), I attached the sides to the bottom.

4. Then I measured the ends and using another 1″ x 4″ board, I cut it to size.

5. Then nailed the ends onto the sides and the bottom.

6. Once the box was complete, I drilled holes at each of the shorter ends for the cup pulls and screwed them in.

One last step… stain!

7. Using Minwax Special Walnut and a lint-free cloth (an old white cotton t-shirt to be exact), I applied the stain and immediately wiped it away because I wanted to keep the look of the box a medium depth (not too dark, not too light) since the table is fairly dark.

The result…

Once the box was complete, within a few hours it was ready to fill. The power of stain can make life quite grand!

I started off with positioning the tall white vase (a recent purchased from Joss and Main) and filled it with branches that I cut down from a tree outside (a non-fruit bearing pear tree to be exact). I’ve been doing this all Spring, Summer, and Fall long and they make the best table centerpiece – they’re beautiful + cost nothing!! They wilt after a few days, but who cares, they’re free. I love the height they bring to the table.

A few days earlier, my kids collected a whole lotta acorns and upon putting them in a tall glass bowl, they made the next perfect addition for the wood box.

Then I added the pretty plum mum. Fall = mums. Am I right?! I had grabbed a bunch in an array of colors for the outside porch a few weeks back and I chose the plum colored one for the box. Deep colored purple, plum, is one of my favorite Fall hues.

Once I had some elements of varying heights and sizes, the base of the box needed to be filled. The colorful gourds and the textured pinecones were the icing on the cake for this Fall Tablescape.

So pretty + colorful, right?! I’m in love. Now that the china cabinet is almost complete, this is the perfect addition to the dining space. More details on the china cabinet makeover coming in the next few days.

Disclosure: I am part of the Loweâ€™s Creative Team and was provided with a Loweâ€™s gift card to purchase items for my project. I was also compensated for my time to use the products. No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write. All opinions are 100% mine!

Why + How to Prime Wood Furniture

Written by Jenna on October 1, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 5 Comments on Why + How to Prime Wood Furniture

It’s been a busy few days around my neck of the woods. With revamping the china cabinet + another BIG project coming down the pipeline (which I can’t wait to share details about), I haven’t had 5 minutes to sit. No worries though, I’ll sit when I’m old, ha.

So my last post was all about the beginning steps of prepping & sanding a piece of wood furniture. The next step, which is what this post is dedicated to, is priming. Primer is SO important! I can not stress enough that primer is a must when painting something. anything. YOU NEED PRIMER.

Why Prime.

Whether a room or a piece of furniture, paint is truly one of the easiest & most affordable ways to update and/or change the look of something. It’s amazing what a fresh coat of paint can do to a wall or a surface. I read once, “Donâ€™t expect paint to do a primerâ€™s job”. The purpose of paint is to provide color, but the purpose of primer is to provide the ideal base for the paint to be applied. Without, the result can fall short.

What does Primer Do?

> Blocks Stain Primers are made to block the natural pigments (tannin) of the wood and/or original stain from bleeding through the new paint.

> Hides Color Priming the surface before painting hides / blocks the previous color from showing through. Using a primer will also sometimes eliminate the need for multiple coats (cost savings!)

> Seals the surface Priming before painting seals the surface so the paint doesn’t get soaked in. The prime provides the perfect base for the paint to be applied. Primer also provides the ideal surface for paint to adhere to. Typically with a stained piece of furniture, like my china cabinet, the original surface is glossy which paint wouldn’t adhere to. Adding a primer to a glossy surface will give the provide the ideal underlayment for a beautiful new color. This same technique can be used for tile, glass, vinyl siding, and aluminum – all slick surfaces that wouldn’t be paintable without primer!

Do you recall when I was painting my laminate bookcase? I failed to prime a spot and the paint just bubbled and didn’t stick to the surface. Here’s a picture…

> Lasting Result Without primer, paint could easily chip or scrape off very easily + quickly. Using one (thin) coat of primer + two (typically, maybe more) coats of paint you should have a long lasting, durable result!

The Right Primer.

There are many primers on the market and the decision on the right one for the job can be tricky. When painting over furniture, you want to choose a primer that indicates on the can that it will block the stain and seal the surface. The primer that I chose for this china cabinet makeover was Glidden Gripper because it truly grips to the surface and seals the stain from coming through. It also created the perfect base for the new WILD color I chose.

Applying Primer.

a how-to tutorial on applying primer. Its so easy…

Note: This is the most important tip I can share about priming (told to me by someone – a pro – in the painting world), primer does not need to be applied like paint. A thin coat of primer is fine and actually better than “globbing” it on. Primer does not need to fully cover the surface underneath, meaning you can still have wood showing through. As long as the surface area has a thin coat (one coat), you are set to paint!

When painting a piece of furniture, I always start at one end and make my way across. Why? Paint dries fairly fast and to avoid drips + brush strokes, it’s important to work in small sections and apply thin coats.

Typically I apply the paint to the surface. Then spread it out. Then go back over it with my brush, using light stokes and following the wood grain.

When painting furniture, the piece is typically vertical, so paint could drip. Around the detailed edges and ornate areas, the less paint the better to avoid paint from dripping. And once an area is done, always continue to look back to make sure paint isn’t seeping down.

For this china cabinet, there were 3 doors, which I removed and are painting laying down. It’s much easier to paint + drips don’t occur as much.

For this piece, it took me about 40 minutes to prime. To me, it’s very relaxing. This is the result…

That’s a wrap… for now.

She’s ready for paint!

Want a peak? Here you go…

I’m off to paint some more…

Coming up (still to do)
China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

China Cabinet Makeover: Prepping + Sanding Wood Furniture {Step 1}

Written by Jenna on September 29, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 6 Comments on China Cabinet Makeover: Prepping + Sanding Wood Furniture {Step 1}

Last week I shared the latest + greatest project that I’m throwing myself into. Since the baby arrived, I kind of lost my DIY mojo, but this project has me back! I can not express how excited I am about this project because I’ve been thinking about it for so long. Have you ever had a moment like that when you are thinking about something so much, but are unsure of how all the details could possibly come together? Well that was me with this project… I knew exactly the cabinet I wanted, I knew the color I wanted it to be, but no cabinet. UNTIL, I found her.

Somehow, someway the stars were aligned and last week she came home! To be specific, my husband and I went to the seller’s home (it’s a must to always go with someone on a Craigslist excursion!) and thankfully he had a pickup, so for $20 extra he delivered it to our house. Lesson learned? It never hurts to ask. We don’t have a pickup and would have had to rent one. This was much easier!

Thinking back, I haven’t tackled a large-scale furniture makeover project like this since the painting of the laminate bookcases and that was a LONG time ago. Whether large or small though, the steps for painting a piece of furniture are typically the same and that’s what I am dedicating my next few posts to… rehabbing a piece of furniture to achieve a dynamic result.

First up, details on how to begin the process of paint a piece of furniture including how-to prep + how-to sand.

The china cabinet was in a pretty sad place before landing in my garage. It was dusty and had lots of grime in the corners, so a good ole’ cleaning was a must!

1. First up… the hardware. I removed all the hardware using a screwdriver and am still on the fence about reusing or replacing the existing pieces. Some of the hardware (knobs) were missing, so I’m not sure what I will do. – TBD –

2. Once the hardware was removed, I used a vacuum to clean all the nooks + crannies of the cabinet. Not only was it dusty, but it was dirty.

Then following that, I used a dampened rag and went over all the surfaces. It was amazing the grime that came off this piece!

3. After taking a few minutes to clean the surface, it was time for sanding.

Using my orbital sander (it really is the best tool for sanding large areas – I use it SO MUCH) I went over the areas that I could. The orbital sander is somewhat large so it worked great for the larger flat surfaces like the top, sides, and doors. For the more detailed, intricate areas, I used a piece of sandpaper (by hand). The very detailed areas I just left (without sanding) and will be using a primer that ‘grips’ to the surface so the paint will adhere. The gripper paint I will be using (more on that in an upcoming post) actually says no sanding is needed, but I like to give a quick sanding for better adhesion. If I were staining this piece, I would have needed to go down to the original surface. Since I am painting it though, a quick sanding (+ a good primer) is all that is needed.

sanding, sanding, sanding…

When sanding wood, it’s important that you do not put too much pressure on the wood surface. I started with a 120 grit paper and then used a 220 grit paper for a smoother finish. A light sanding is just enough and always continue to rotate and move the sander so you are not concentrating on one section for a long time.

Sections of the china cabinet where I could not use the orbital sander, I sanded by hand. Areas like the buffet top and the legs were very worn (natural wear + tear) and needed to be smoothed out.

4. Sanding took about 10-15 minutes and then I cleaned all the surfaces again. Lastly before painting this girl of mine, I taped off the glass. Using painters tape, I taped off the edge where the wood meets the glass. This will make painting much easier!

And that’s it. For now!

This china cabinet is still in transition mode from blah to pretty. Next up? Primer, which is the key to a good paint job. Stay tuned for my next post on Why & How to Prime Wood Furniture.

Coming up (still to do)
China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

China Cabinet Makeover: Backstory + Choosing a Color

Written by Jenna on September 25, 2014. Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 7 Comments on China Cabinet Makeover: Backstory + Choosing a Color

In the past 2 days, a project that I’ve been dreaming about for months has magically come to fruition! Somehow the stars aligned and I’m freaking excited about this one…

So a long while back, about 5-6 months ago to be specific, I had the itch to spice up the dining room. At the time, I was in the last weeks of my pregnancy so no real action could take place, but I had lots & lots of thoughts brewing in my brain. My mind immediately went to changing everything, but I decided to start off slow (truly the best way to makeover a space). First up, the bench. I snagged a gorgeous navy Ikat patterned fabric earlier in the year and the bench at our dining table was reupholstered. Next up, the end chairs. I ditched the leather matchy-matchy chairs and scored a new wicker style from Target. They’re actually outdoor seats and perfect for a family with a load of kids – yes, that’s us now. Here’s a recent shot…

What’s next?

The buffet.

We’ve had our current buffet for years (here’s a peak from last years Christmas spread) and remember how I mentioned recently that sometimes it’s difficult for the Mister to let go of things (to sell or to update), well this is one of those pieces. After some thought, we both agreed the buffet had to go and something else – something new – was needed. So the search began…

Craigslist. Local thrift stores. Garage sales.

And then I found IT. ‘She’ was perfect and just what I was thinking to spice this space up!

I found her on Craiglist and the “purchase” story is something I won’t forget. Miraculously, we got it home. Somehow. Someway. She now sits in our garage.

Check out the details…

I love that there is a pull-out drawer in the lower cabinet. What a great spot for storing silverware or cloth napkins!

The hardware is so true to the time of this piece. Not all the hardware came with the piece, so I may have to keep some & find some new…

So let’s take a few steps back for a moment…

Before I had even acquired her, I had a vision. A bright + bold + eye popping vision. A raspberry vision to be exact. Even before she came home, I knew what color she’d be…

In the midst of my emails & calls to get my china cabinet home, Glidden paint reached out to me about collaborating on a project. I love Glidden paint colors (my favorite orange wall is a fabulous Glidden hue) & was excited about their new simplified color palette.

I jumped on board and found THE PERFECT COLOR in their red & magenta section. I knew I wanted a mix of something not too red, but not too pink. And then I found IT – the perfect shade of raspberry called Red Red Rose.

Perfect Cabinet + Perfect Color = Makeover Heaven

I’ve got big plans for this lady of mine. She’s going to be fabulous and I can’t wait to spice this space up with a pop of color.

Looking for the perfect color for your space or the ideal color for a furniture makeover? Check out Color My Room where you can preview a space with a color you love.

Or are you inspired by a picture and love the colors in it? Click on over to My Image Inspiration where a color palette will be created using hues from your image.

There are so many great tools that Glidden paint has to offer to help choose the perfect color! I’m off to paint. If you need me, I’ll be in the garage with a paint brush in hand. I can’t wait to see how this all comes together…

Coming up (still to do)
China Cabinet Makeover {Reveal}

This post is sponsored by Glidden paint, but all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own. I am so excited about this project & thrilled to be partnering with Glidden paint on this furniture makeover. I’d love for you to follow along on this new project!

How-To Make a Fabric Valance

Written by Jenna on September 16, 2014. Posted in DIY, Window Treatments.

This post is a tutorial on the box pleat valance that I made for my master bathroom makeover three years ago. I’ve received many emails asking about a tutorial and after the recent post on the roundup of all my handmade window treatments + the feature of the bathroom in the current KBMO, a dedicated post was needed. Better later than never, right?

So here we go. The details on how I made this super easy loose-style (no pleats) box valance with a stylish greek key design…

>>> how-to make a box (loose, no pleat) valance

Note: for this part of the tutorial, I am sharing another valance I made using a printed flower fabric

1. For a loose box-style valance, I often like to have them sit as close to the ceiling as possible and position them about 1/2″ wider than the edge of the moulding. It’s best to mount the rod first (before making the valance) so you can measure the total width of the rod from end to end.

2. Once you know the total width, cut your fabric to that same size + add 1″. Then measure the length you want the valance to hang + add 4″.

So you have your fabric cut…

3. Position the fabric so right sides are together. One side will be folded. Sew the two shorter sides using a 1/2″ inseam. Leave the other long edge unsewn.

4. Once sewn, turn the fabric right side out and iron the newly sewn edges. Then taking the unsewn side, fold it over 4″ to create the rod pocket.

5. And sew at the 3.5″ mark – this will leave you a nice large pocket to feed the metal rod through.

Iron and it’s done! Super simple loose box valance. I could have added pleats at the corners, but that is beyond my skill-set. And anyway, I like the more tailored look better. Don’t you? Or do you prefer pleats?

>>> creating a greek key design

Jumping back to the valance for my bathroom, once the valance was made (using drop cloth by the way – I forgot to mention that), I hung it up and marked it for the positioning of the greek key design.

1. Once I made the markings on the valance, I used 3m painters tape to lay out my greek key design.

The pink tabs mark where the valance turns to the side, so from that point + the top and bottom, I marked 2″ in for the design to start.

2. Once the overall design was made, I cleaned up the tape.

It’s looking like something… The part that was taped would soon be the part for the greek key design.

3. Then using a pencil, I outlined the edges of the tape.

4. I then pulled the tape off and filled in the areas that I didn’t pencil in.

5. The best and last part was filling it in! Using a light blue fabric pen (that matches almost exactly to the other blue hues in the space), I colored in the design.

And that’s a wrap. From start to finish, the project took about an hour. And finally after three years, I’m sharing the tutorial.

This is the overall master bathroom space with the greek key valance…

If you haven’t seen the before & after of this once horrid space, you have to check it out!

You also might see it in the current issue of Kitchen + Bath Makeovers magazine…

One more look at the finished valance… Layered with a simple bamboo roman shade, this valance is perfect for the bathroom space.

Want to see more DIY window treatment ideas? Check out this post of mine…

What DIY window treatments have you created? Do you like to make your own window treatments or would you rather buy them done/totally complete from a store?

9 Ideas for DIY Window Treatments

Written by Jenna on September 10, 2014. Posted in DIY, Window Treatments. 4 Comments on 9 Ideas for DIY Window Treatments

Since the older kids have been back in school, I’ve been cleaning + organizing like a mad woman! It’s bittersweet not to have them home throughout the day, but it’s been nice getting the house back in order. As I’ve been making my way room by room, for some reason I’ve been paying extra attention to the window treatments and realized that almost every window “dressing” (with the exception of 2) have been DIY projects. Either I made them from scratch or partly DIYed them making them truly one-of-a-kind.

I’m a big believer that window treatments make (and break if not done right) a room and that something is needed on every window in the home. Whether a roman shade, a long panel, or a sheer, dressing up a window will truly bring everything in a room together and complete the overall look.

Since I have created so many one-of-a-kind treatments (most I have shared tutorials for, some I haven’t and will in this post), I thought I’d document them all in one place… alas this post on 9 Ideas for DIY Window Treatments.

tutorial: Add stripes to a curtain using paint

Many of the DIY window treatments that I’ve created have been inspired by spaces I’ve seen + loved. Instead of going custom which is typically big $$$ bucks, I try to figure out a way to get the look but for MUCH LESS. First up, are my fabulous living room/office panels. I was inspired by this space…

The thin-line striped panels were quite unique and I loved how they added a pop of color, yet didn’t overwhelm the space. To make my own panels, I took a simple white panel (from Ikea) and painted the stripes using the same color as the walls.

Here is the result…

tutorial: Add decorative trim to store-bought curtain panels

Another idea to creating a designer-looking window treatment at a fraction of the cost is to add a leading edge. For this window, I sewed on a fun fabric to the panel edges (top, side, and bottom). Not only does the new fabric draw the eye in, but I was able to make the panel longer so the rod can sit higher on the wall. Remember high and wide is best —> read more about that in this post!

tutorial: Drop cloth panels with a leading edge detail

Sometimes I jazz up window panels that I buy at the store and sometimes I make them from scratch. One of my favorite fabrics to work with is drop cloth. Yes, painters use it for covering floors and furniture, but I use it to make things… like window treatments. For this DIY window panel, I made a panel (no need for lining it because drop cloth has good weight), then added a leading edge detail on top of the drop cloth fabric (instead of adding it to the edge like the pink panel above).

This is a close-up of the edging detail…

tutorial: Lined window panels using drop cloth material

Since we’re on the topic of making panels from scratch, these DIY window treatments are lined panels I had originally made for the master bedroom, but recently moved to the dining room. Again, I used drop cloth, but this time I used it to line the back of the panels so they are heavier and block the sun.

These drop cloth-lined panels now “dress” the dining room windows…

tutorial: Drop cloth box valance with greek key detail

Another drop cloth window treatment (i heart drop cloth), but this time instead of a long panel I created a box-style valance for my master bathroom.

{This bathroom was recently featured in Kitchen + Bath Makeovers magazine}

tutorial: Faux roman shades

ONE MORE drop cloth DIY window treatment I created are the faux roman shades that are also in my dining room. I love the look of layered window treatments, so the roman shades I created look beautiful with the handmade window panels.

tutorial: Adding a leading edge

This DIY window treatment is similar to the project I shared above (#2), but the leading edge is only on the front edge of the store-bought panel. Why? Because the rod could only be hung at a specific place because of the window configuration, so if I had added a leading edge to the top and bottom as well, it would have been too long! These custom (for me) panels were a recent project for the master bedroom refresh that I tackled earlier in the year.

Adding a leading edge using woven trim (instead of fabric)

Another DIY window treatment that I didn’t share a tutorial for, but is super easy to do, are the panels I made for more my boys bedroom makeover (which I just finished). For these window treatments, I used white cotton Ikea panels (same panels as #1 above) and added a 1″ wide woven trim to the edge.

Using black thread (to match the woven trim), I sewed the trim on directly to the edge of the panel and this is the result…

So simple and the perfect way to dress up a plain ole’ curtain!

Two tone window panels with decorative trim detail

Last, but not least, new curtain panels that I’ve NEVER shown on the blog. These DIY window panels are the most recent I’ve made for my daughters’ bedroom. They replaced the fuschia panels (#2 above) when we recently created the nursery nook for baby #3. I haven’t put together a final reveal of the room changes, but promise to do so very soon – be on the look out. Anyway, to create the nursery nook, we removed the 3-in-1 play tent and when doing so I was left with lots of fabric. So I did some altering + sewing, and created new panels.

These panels are super cute and perfect for a girls room! I used a sheer fabric (with a pretty design) for the top section, then a solid cotton fabric for the bottom section. At the point where the two fabrics meet, I added decorative trim using a combination of a 1/2″ wide ribbon + white pom-pom trim.

So there you have it. 9 different DIY window treatments. All in my home.

My designer advice: Don’t leave your windows “undressed”. Choosing a window treatment can sometimes be a bit daunting, but use inspiration to guide you. And never be afraid of updating a store-bought window treatment to achieve a custom, designer look. The smallest change is sometimes all that is needed. Lastly, if you can’t find it, DIY it!

DIY: How-To Reupholster a Bench

Written by Jenna on September 4, 2014. Posted in DIY, fabrics, Furniture. 10 Comments on DIY: How-To Reupholster a Bench

Projects in my corner of the world have been taking forever lately (for good reason, of course… aka, summer + a new baby), BUT that doesn’t mean my mind hasn’t been working at full speed conjuring up new & great DIYs + decorating updates…

Over the past months, I have thought of so much I want to tackle around the house. One spot in particular is the dining room. It really needs a pick me up! I have it all planned in my head, but putting thoughts to work (like pen to paper) isn’t always the easiest thing…

Before baby #3 came along, I had all hopes to start the task of changing the space. Not much got accomplished, but I was able to make a few updates while waiting for her arrival.

And it all started with the fabric… Back in the beginning of the year (remember I shared a sneak peek on IG?), I got this gorgeous fabric from fabric.com that was an Ikat pattern with varying shades of blues + layers of orange & yellow.

It was the perfect pattern to bring all the colors of my home together!

So there is a back story on the bench… The Mister often has a difficult time changing things (that includes selling or giving stuff away). It’s kind of difficult in a DIY home not to change things, but when we were first married we bought this bench (as well as many of our other furniture pieces) and he’s attached to it. What can I say, he’s a sentimental guy. It’s often a challenge to come to an agreement to let things go or make changes. And if he’s not too attached to it, I often start the changing process when he’s at work (hehe, I’m a sneaky gal – NOT). I do respect his wishes on certain pieces and if he doesn’t budge, I leave it alone. If he’s so-so about something, I try to be persuasive and he will usually be in agreeance. And ALWAYS in the end (not what time has it failed) he has a smile on his face and says, “you were right Jenna, it does look better” or “that was a good change”. Yes honey, I do say so myself that I was right (again).

Anyway, long story short, this bench was ONE of the pieces that took some convincing to change. And guess what in the end, I didn’t “ruin” it at all. I was strategically able to change the bench with new fabric WITHOUT damaging any of the existing (just in case he wants to have it back to what it used to look like). SCORE.

Here’s how the process went…

1. I first laid out the fabric to figure out the positioning for how it would look best.

Typical fabric is 54″ wide, as was this fabric. I could have railroaded the fabric (see diagram below) which would have been easier, but I wanted the pattern the other way (regular), so I had to seam two pieces together.

via

It was a bit tricky and took some time, but after a few mishaps, the result was great and you would have no idea there is a seam.

2. I positioned one piece of fabric on the bench, then matched up the pattern with the second piece of fabric. Then I turned one piece over the other so the two right sides were facing each other. I pinned the fabrics together and sewed.

3. Once the fabrics were sewn together, I positioned it over the entire existing bench. Before cutting the fabric, I made sure there was plenty of it hanging over the edges so I would have enough ‘play’ for adjusting.

4. Once the fabric was just right, I took my staplegun and stapled the fabric to the bench. To make sure not to ‘ruin’ the bench, I stapled the fabric to the existing fabric, which if needed at some point in the future, could easily be removed.

I started in the middle of one of the long ends, then worked my way out. Once the side was complete, I pulled the fabric taught and stapled the fabric to the bench on the other side. Then I used the same steps for the shorter ends.

Next up, the corner…

5. Once the sides were done, it was time to work on the corners. I tried a few ways and this was what seemed to work + look best. I flattened out and folded over one side, then the other, and secured with a few staples.

6. After the entire perimeter of the bench was secured, I trimmed the excess fabric. I cut about 1/2″ from the staples.

7. To cover the staples and to give a finished tailored look, I added 1.5″ thick woven trim for the banding (I got this trim from Hobby Lobby).

I started in the middle of one side of the long ends and hot glued the trim to the new fabric (again not ruining the original bench fabric or wood).

I continued around the entire perimeter of the bench and then once I came to the end, I cut the trim and tucked the end under to give a finished look.

And that was it. Finito.

Along with the bench, I freshened up the dining room with some new end chairs. These are actually outdoor wicker chairs (from Target),which I thought would be perfect because they can easily be wiped down since spills and dropped food is inevitable. Right?!

I also had to say ba-bye to my beautiful yellow ombre Ikat rug. Somehow it got ruined way too fast and didn’t wear well. I was super sad, so for now nothing is under the table – except crumbs from last nights dinner…

Our kids art gallery wall also got a few updates. My kiddos are always making new artwork, which I love to display.

More is to come in this space, but for now the small changes make me very happy.

O, and if you’re wondering what the Mister thought of the bench. After it took him a few days to notice (haha), he loved the change. just like I thought…

If you’re interesting in doing a similar upholstery project (now or later) and want to save this tutorial, pin it!

This was my second reupholstery project, so believe me, I am no expert! It really wasn’t difficult, but took time + patience. Overall, the project took about an hour. My first reupholstery project was the side chair that sits in my office. The before and after is pretty dynamic…

You can take a peak at the entire space because it’s featured in the current issue of Better Homes and Gardens Storage Magazine {squeal}

So tell me, have you ever reupholstered something?

How-to Prep + Season a New Chalkboard Wall

Written by Jenna on August 1, 2014. Posted in DIY. 10 Comments on How-to Prep + Season a New Chalkboard Wall

It’s August – WOW! Where has the Summer gone?! Obviously for me with a newborn (+ 2 older kids), it’s been a busy few weeks, but I just can’t believe the days are passing by so quickly. For some of you back to school is only a few short days away. For us, school doesn’t start till after Labor Day so we get to enjoy few more weeks of late mornings, lazy days, and soaking up the sun!

Since I have 3 kids now, lately I’ve been trying to be overly organized and prepared. Thinking + prepping ahead of time is my M.O. With back to school around the corner, Lowe’s put the Creative Team to the challenge to create something that would be appropriate for the jump back to the classroom. Since I’ll now have 2 in elementary school – yikes – I started thinking about what my kids will need to do to get up & moving in the mornings! Outside of the bedrooms + hall bath is a small space that I thought would be perfect for something. After some thought, I decided on creating a chalkboard wall {which makes 3 in the house… you can never have enough wall to write on – the other 2 chalkboard walls are in the basement and at our family central command center}. It was the perfect idea since they’re fun & easy to update.

Since this is our 3rd writable wall for chalk, I though I would share a few tips + tricks that I’ve learned along the way. Here is the ultimate + best way to PREP & SEASON a new chalkboard wall.

The Prep

To start off, I chose to give the upstairs hallway a fresh new coat of paint. The color ‘before’ was the same as the foyer before it got striped. It was way too beige for my current taste, so I chose a lighter + brighter feel.

The new hallway color: Benjamin Moore Plaster of Paris (I used Valspar paint, which Lowe’s color matched for me)

Once the walls were done, which took no time at all since the space is small, the area for my new chalkboard wall was ready to start. I didn’t bother painting the space where the chalkboard wall was going because that would have just been a waste of time + paint, so I left that the old color.

> Tip #1: Sand to Create the Best Chalkboard Wall Surface

You Must Sand the wall! Typical chalkboard is super smooth – no bumps, no lumps. So the wall needs to be as smooth as possible so the chalk will adhere well & so it will erase well.

Using my favorite go-to tool, my orbital sander, I gave the entire wall a really good sanding. This wall is a typical sheetrock wall with NO extra textural details, but it was amazing how “bumpy” it was. You can see from the picture below after only a few minutes of sanding, how many “bumps” were smoothed out using the sander. Once the surface was fairly smooth, it was done. It wasn’t 100% bump-free, but it was much better than before.

Overall, this step took about 8-10 minutes and I do recommend a hand sander versus sanding by hand. Your arm will ache if you go that route.

Once the sanding was complete, it was time to paint. Before that though, I chose to add a border edge around my new chalkboard surface, similar to what I did for our Central Command Center. I felt adding this edge would give the wall a cleaner, more finished/polished look.

Using 1″ wide painters tape, I added a 2″ border on all 4 sides…

For a more thorough tutorial on creating a border, check out my post on How-To Create a Framed Chalkboard Wall

Once the border was done, it was time to get my paint-on!

> Tip #2: Use a Roller for a Smooth Finish

Using a roller instead of a brush will get a much smoother finish. It’s also key to apply multiple light coats of chalk paint instead of 1-2 thicker coats.

Roll on the paint and smooth it out as much as possible by painting in all different directions. You want to be sure to avoid any streaks or lumps on the wall.

Overall, unlike typical wall paint which takes 2 coats, I did 4-5 light coats. It dries quickly, so there wasn’t too much downtime between coats.

This is what I used…

When the last coat was applied, I immediately removed the painters tape. By removing it when the paint is still wet will allow it to peel off the wall easier rather than when it’s dry.

Time to ‘Season’

The chalk paint is typically dry a few days after your last coat, but be sure to read the product instructions on the exact drying time before moving forward. Once you’re good to go, it’s time to ‘season’ the newly created chalkboard wall. I had previously never done this step and it really makes a BIG DIFFERENCE for how the chalkboard wall wears & erases.

Basically there is one easy + fast step…

1. Using the side of a piece of chalk, roll it on the entire surface of the chalkboard wall.

2. Then erase it away.

So simple, but So important!

And here is the result…

A perfectly prepped + seasoned chalkboard board wall!

It’s ready to use…

You + Your Kids will love it!

Now we have the ultimate spot to keep the kids on schedule each morning – I hope. I’ll probably still have to give about 20 reminders as well.

This new hallway, even though small, feels so much fresher & 100% usable. I love using every square inch of our pad, don’t you?!

Have you ever created a chalkboard wall? Whether for fun or organization, chalkboard walls are perfect for any space in the house!