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DIY: Fireplace Surround Transformation

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Tile. 29 Comments on DIY: Fireplace Surround Transformation

With the second week of the new decade upon us, I have lots of tile projects brewing in my head.  So far for 2011, I’ve accomplished three (of many) projects that have been on my mind since we moved into our home almost a year ago.  My latest project has been re-tiling the surround of the fireplace. 

Here is a preview of the completed fireplace:

{The TRANSFORMATION}
The first step of the transformation took place last year and that step alone was {HUGE}!  We updated the mantel by painting it a dark brown from the original oak finish.  There were decorative faux-appliques on the flat surface that we also removed to create a more transitional look.  Here are picture of the before, middle, and after!
This is a ‘pic’ from when we moved into the house….
fireplace = in need of some MAJOR LOVE!
We painted it a dark brown color, but left the tile.
It just didn’t go with our decor, so we…..
…transformed it to THIS! Voila….The new fireplace surround!
I’ve previously posted a tile project {click here} that I’ve worked on and provided a step-by-step tutorial, but here it is again!
{Step By Step to install TILE}
Tiling seems like a difficult process, but honestly, it really isn’t.  Just take your time…that’s the KEY! To start off, make sure the area/surface you are working is completely clean.  I also want to add that I DID NOT remove the old tile…we tiled right on top of the OLD tile.  Some may say this is a mistake, BUT, I did not want to deal with removing the old tile and it isn’t a surface that will be walked on…what the HAaaaaY…let’s go for it 🙂
Before using any adhesive, do a DRY RUN.  Layout your tile pattern to make sure it will work how you want it. Once you put adhesive down ~ YOU ARE COMMITTED!  Mark off where you want the tile to be cut. THEN….
…Use a WET SAW to cut your pieces!  This is my BEST ADVICE for the whole project….Did you hear me??  Definitely USE a Wet Saw!!!   In previous tile projects, we used a manual tile cutter…BIG MISTAKE.  You will waste sooo much tile and the project will take double the time.  Invest in a Wet Saw….we bought ours for $45 from Home Depot….it’s worth it!
Once the tiles are cut to size, it’s time to put on the adhesive. (Keep on reading for my recommendations on adhesive & grout).  Throw a glob of adhesive on the back of your tile OR on the surface you are tiling.  Because we were tiling a small area versus an entire floor, putting the adhesive on the back of the tile was MUCH easier!  Then using a V-grooved trowel, evenly coat the back of the tile (holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle) and adhere it to the surface. Set the first tile in place, pressing it firmly into the mortar.
For this project and my last tile project, I used a pre-mix adhesive and grout.  What a great product…no need to bother with mixing the grout powder and water.  BUT, this product is costly and is really best when tiling small areas.  For larger tiling projects, I would recommend a separate adhesive and grout mixture (only because of the cost factor).  For this project it worked perfectly.  Forgot to add…it is available in a variety of colors…I used alabaster.
We installed the tile at the top first and due to the laws of gravity, the tile started to fall…GGGrrreat!  SO… we used our son’s skateboard ramp to hold them in place….it worked perfectly, YAY (I knew that darn thing would come in handy)!!  NOTE: If tiling a vertical surface, you may need to use supports to keep the tile in place.
Then we started on the sides of the surround…
Then the floor…
 DONE!
 Because of the area I was working in, I didn’t want the fireplace mantel to get ruined, so using painters tape, I taped the surrounding surfaces.
 
 Tile is INSTALLED and now it’s time to GROUT!

This is the second time I grouted using a Ziploc bag and it made the process SO easy.  Usually the task of grouting is quite laborious, but NOT with a Ziploc bag!  Just like you would frost a cake, put your grout mixture into a Ziploc bag and grout-away!  

Squeeze out the grout and fill each joint with more than enough of the mixture ~ THEN…
….Once all the joints are filled with enough grout, start to wipe it away with a damp sponge (wring dripless) to remove grout residue.  Use a sponge that is specific for tile ~ one side is a typical sponge and the other side has a rough, abrasive surface.  The rough side is important to remove the grout off the tile surface, but DON’T scrub the joints!
Remove the haze immediately; If the tile starts to look like this, wipe the haze with a damp cloth again.  Then buff the tiles with a clean, dry cloth.  This may happen several times. Then…

YOU’RE DONE!
{COMPLETE}
I am SO happy to have finally completed this project.  It’s been on my to-do-list for a long time and I’m very happy with the results.
Do you have any tile projects planned around your house?

DIY: Fireplace Surround Transformation

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Tile.

With the second week of the new decade upon us, I have lots of tile projects brewing in my head.  So far for 2011, I’ve accomplished three (of many) projects that have been on my mind since we moved into our home almost a year ago.  My latest project has been re-tiling the surround of the fireplace. 

Here is a preview of the completed fireplace:

{The TRANSFORMATION}
The first step of the transformation took place last year and that step alone was {HUGE}!  We updated the mantel by painting it a dark brown from the original oak finish.  There were decorative faux-appliques on the flat surface that we also removed to create a more transitional look.  Here are picture of the before, middle, and after!
This is a ‘pic’ from when we moved into the house….
fireplace = in need of some MAJOR LOVE!
We painted it a dark brown color, but left the tile.
It just didn’t go with our decor, so we…..
…transformed it to THIS! Voila….The new fireplace surround!
I’ve previously posted a tile project {click here} that I’ve worked on and provided a step-by-step tutorial, but here it is again!
{Step By Step to install TILE}
Tiling seems like a difficult process, but honestly, it really isn’t.  Just take your time…that’s the KEY! To start off, make sure the area/surface you are working is completely clean.  I also want to add that I DID NOT remove the old tile…we tiled right on top of the OLD tile.  Some may say this is a mistake, BUT, I did not want to deal with removing the old tile and it isn’t a surface that will be walked on…what the HAaaaaY…let’s go for it 🙂
Before using any adhesive, do a DRY RUN.  Layout your tile pattern to make sure it will work how you want it. Once you put adhesive down ~ YOU ARE COMMITTED!  Mark off where you want the tile to be cut. THEN….
…Use a WET SAW to cut your pieces!  This is my BEST ADVICE for the whole project….Did you hear me??  Definitely USE a Wet Saw!!!   In previous tile projects, we used a manual tile cutter…BIG MISTAKE.  You will waste sooo much tile and the project will take double the time.  Invest in a Wet Saw….we bought ours for $45 from Home Depot….it’s worth it!
Once the tiles are cut to size, it’s time to put on the adhesive. (Keep on reading for my recommendations on adhesive & grout).  Throw a glob of adhesive on the back of your tile OR on the surface you are tiling.  Because we were tiling a small area versus an entire floor, putting the adhesive on the back of the tile was MUCH easier!  Then using a V-grooved trowel, evenly coat the back of the tile (holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle) and adhere it to the surface. Set the first tile in place, pressing it firmly into the mortar.
For this project and my last tile project, I used a pre-mix adhesive and grout.  What a great product…no need to bother with mixing the grout powder and water.  BUT, this product is costly and is really best when tiling small areas.  For larger tiling projects, I would recommend a separate adhesive and grout mixture (only because of the cost factor).  For this project it worked perfectly.  Forgot to add…it is available in a variety of colors…I used alabaster.
We installed the tile at the top first and due to the laws of gravity, the tile started to fall…GGGrrreat!  SO… we used our son’s skateboard ramp to hold them in place….it worked perfectly, YAY (I knew that darn thing would come in handy)!!  NOTE: If tiling a vertical surface, you may need to use supports to keep the tile in place.
Then we started on the sides of the surround…
Then the floor…
 DONE!
 Because of the area I was working in, I didn’t want the fireplace mantel to get ruined, so using painters tape, I taped the surrounding surfaces.
 
 Tile is INSTALLED and now it’s time to GROUT!

This is the second time I grouted using a Ziploc bag and it made the process SO easy.  Usually the task of grouting is quite laborious, but NOT with a Ziploc bag!  Just like you would frost a cake, put your grout mixture into a Ziploc bag and grout-away!  

Squeeze out the grout and fill each joint with more than enough of the mixture ~ THEN…
….Once all the joints are filled with enough grout, start to wipe it away with a damp sponge (wring dripless) to remove grout residue.  Use a sponge that is specific for tile ~ one side is a typical sponge and the other side has a rough, abrasive surface.  The rough side is important to remove the grout off the tile surface, but DON’T scrub the joints!
Remove the haze immediately; If the tile starts to look like this, wipe the haze with a damp cloth again.  Then buff the tiles with a clean, dry cloth.  This may happen several times. Then…

YOU’RE DONE!
{COMPLETE}
I am SO happy to have finally completed this project.  It’s been on my to-do-list for a long time and I’m very happy with the results.
Do you have any tile projects planned around your house?

DIY: Kitchen Window Valance

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Window Treatments. 9 Comments on DIY: Kitchen Window Valance

For the past week my world has been filled with shredding, decluttering, organizing, and the start of new projects for 2011.  My mind has been going non-stop about all the things that I want to tackle…of course, I’d love to snap my fingers and it all be done like Barbara Eden in I Dream of Jeannie, but that’s not reality.  SO…where to begin… I’ve been working on multiple projects and gave you a sneak peek of one yesterday….here’s my latest….

Since moving into our home almost a year ago, I’ve been wanting to install a valance at the kitchen window.  The window is almost 90″ wide, so I envisioned creating a treatment that was unique, yet one that didn’t compromise the entering light.

{Kitchen Window ~ COMPLETE}

 

{Materials}

I chose a cotton material that has a WHITE background with taupe accents; It has a casual look and complements my taupe-colored, silk dining room draperies.  Not handy on a sewing machine (like me)? Stitch Witch is your answer…create anything using this fusible tape and your iron! Depending on the fabric, this project could cost less than $20.

Supply breakdown:
  • 3 yds of fabric (my window is 89″ wide & I used about 2.5 yards ) = $3.99/yd = $11.97
  • Stitch Witch fusible tape (heavy duty) = $3 +/-
  • Ribbon (18 feet long ~ I used 4 feet) = $3.99
  • 1 x 2 wood strip = $2.99
  • ‘L’ Brackets = $3 +/-
  • Screws (I already had)
  • Iron (hopefully you already have this)
My Project Total:  $25
Depending on the materials you  already have on hand, the project total could be even less!

 

{Breakdown}
Determine the length (drop) of the valance and double it, so the fabric is two layers.  (Hint: I used my wood floor to ‘assist’ in keeping the fabric and wood strip aligned). Once the fabric is positioned at the right length, but the wood strip underneath and pin the fabric to it (so it doesn’t move while stapling).  Then STEP TWO!
STAPLE! Using your staple gun, afix the fabric to the top of the wood strip.
Remove the pins.
Wrap the fabric around to the back of the wood strip, and STAPLE.
Once that’s complete, trim the fabric.
The CORNER! Since the top edge of the wood strip would be against the ceiling, I wasn’t concerned to make it look “pretty”.  I wrapped the fabric around the side to create a boxed corner to hide the side / return of the wood strip.
HANGING TIME! Install the ‘L’ brackets to the underside of the valance.  Then it’s ready to hang.  My window condition was a little tricky and I had to install the valance on the window casing, but it would be best to install it on the wall or against the ceiling. (Hint: Position your window treatment as high as possible on the wall ~ it makes the room feel taller, and also provides close to the same amount of light to enter)
For my valance, I wanted the ribbon to align with the window mullion, so I measured in from the side and stapled one side of the ribbon to the top of the wood strip (This step was done BEFORE installing the valance).
Once I determined the desired ‘swag’ length, I stapled the ribbon on the underside of the wood strip.
{Simple & Sophisticated}
Thanks for checking out my new window valance!  This was a fairly easy project, but it’s always best to have a helping hand, especially with a window that’s almost 8′ long, like mine!
Do you have any windows that need updating with new treatments?

 

You can find my projected linked up to:

 

WhisperWood Cottage
As well as these linky parties

 

 

Kitchen Renovation Update: Decisions have been made!

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Kitchen. 5 Comments on Kitchen Renovation Update: Decisions have been made!

A little update on my (minor) kitchen reno…

I found some interesting ideas while making a pit stop @ Home Depot AND Lowe’s yesterday.  After lots of thought, I’ve made some decisions!  I LOVE the idea of painting my kitchen cabinets black as I posted the other day, but am relunctant because the current countertop is a dark greenish laminate (it sounds worse than it is) and I don’t want to invest a huge amount into it (since ONE DAY, I hope to do a BIG reno)!!  Since I am on a TIGHT BUDGET and don’t want to invest too much money for a short fix, I have tried to thoroughly think through the whole process before taking action!  

{Cabinet Options}
Rusto-leum Cabinet Transformations has a 4 step process ~ (1) Deglosser, (2) Bond Coat, (3) Decorative Glaze, (4) Protective Top Coat. This treatment completely strips the current application (stain or paint), which allows you to skip the sanding process and priming process.  This application also gives you the option to add a decorative glaze.  One box is $80 and covers 100 sq. ft / 40 linear feet (an average kitchen would need 2 boxes)
Minwax has a product call Express Color, which you wipe on with a cloth.  Great product for a small piece of furniture, but not a kitchen transformation.
{Decision}

One of my readers suggested using a Gel Stain to darken the cabinets without taking the huge step of painting them.  I thought this idea was genius!  The cabinets are actually in good condition and the style is livable, so this is what I am leaning toward.

{Countertops}

So on to the decision for the countertops.  I’m a bit stuck… Of course granite would be lovely and hopefully we’ll eventually go that route (when we do our BIG reno ONE DAY).  I’m thinking of painting the laminate countertops.  Did you know you could do that??  You CAN!!  

{Idea 1}
Lowe’s has a product called Modern Masters, which transforms the countertops using a 3 step process ~ (1) adhesive base coat, (2) Decorative Color Chips, (3) Protective Top Coat.  What I’m not sold on is the color chips….not really my cup of tea.  Watch this You Tube video to see actual steps. The cost of the materials is about $250.
{Idea 2}

Lowe’s has another product by Rust-oleum called Countertop Coating.  Basically it’s a one step process of 2 coats of ‘painting’ your countertops with this product.  The drawback, the surface will have a monochrome, painted look.  It might ‘look’ okay, but I’m not sure.  I’m leaning towards this idea, BUT want to try a sample first. The cost of one can is $20+/- (an average kitchen would be about 2 cans ~ read the back for more details)

{Idea 3}

Another idea opposed to painting the countertop surface is to resurface the existing laminate with new laminate.  Laminate is available in an array of colors and textures, and can truly liven and transform a space! This idea is nice for a permanent solution since it’s time consuming and labor intensive. Read More.

Take a look at some of these helpful and informational videos on changing/updating your laminate countertops:

How to paint countertops (using the Rust-oleum Countertop Coating shown above) 
How to paint over a laminate surface 

{Kitchen Conclusion}

Cabinets: We’re going to use a Gel Stain with a walnut finish to cut down on the ‘orangey’ oak color.  They won’t be black, but they will be darker 🙂
Countertops: We’ve decided on Idea #2.  One because of the cost (less than $40) and two because it’s a fairly easy (hopefully ~ I’ll probably regret saying this) process.  Unfortunately though, from my research, the smell is very BAD so the countertop painting will have to wait till Spring/Summer when the windows can be open for proper ventilation.  With two young kids, there is NO WAY we can do this process in the Winter!
Toe Kick: Remove the laminate and install 4 x 4 or 4 x 12 tile
Window: Add new valance ~ stay tuned to see this transformation coming in a few weeks!
Upper (lonely) Cabinet: The one upper cabinet that is by itself will have the door removed and I’ll get baskets for storage (again, crossing my fingers that this will work…we shall see)
Cabinet Hardware: DONE…take a peak! 

Thanks for being my sounding board on this (minor) Kitchen Transformation!
Do you have plans to update your kitchen in 2011?