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From Wood to White: How-To Paint Mouldings

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 39 Comments on From Wood to White: How-To Paint Mouldings

If I could sum up my Summer in DIY terms, it was all about painting. From the staircase to my office chair, from the white shelves to the new blue room, I think there was 2 (or maybe even 3) weeks straight that I had a paintbrush in-hand everyday!  Honestly, I’m kind of sick done with painting for awhile. Anyway, alot of projects got accomplished and one in particular were the oak stained wood mouldings that I painted white.  All I can say is…  WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

The staircase project was what did it and started the process of updating the mouldings.  It’s something that I wanted to undertake for a long time, but just didn’t know where to begin.  Once I started painting the stair risers and balusters, I realized that painting the trimwork wasn’t too difficult, so I just continued around the room. Even though the staircase was time consuming, the result was completely worth the effort and I knew I would feel the same way once the mouldings were finished.

To start off, I applied painters tape to the wall so only the mouldings (the areas that I wanted to paint) were exposed.

Here’s a snapshot when I painted the area around the window in the living room.

* Sidenote: My walls were already painted, but if you’re undertaking this project and your walls are NOT painted or you plan on changing the wall color, then paint the mouldings first.  Believe Me, It’s much easier!  So you would reverse the step I just mentioned.  Paint your mouldings first and once they are dry, tape the moulding edge (or buy a moulding paint gadget), THEN paint the wall color.

okay, moving on…

Once the tape was up, I was ready to paint.  Using my favorite Purdy brush, I applied one coat of Kilz Primer (I’ve heard good things about gripper primer too, but haven’t tried it yet).  I didn’t bother with sanding because even though the mouldings were stained, there was no gloss or sheen to them.  They were at the point of needing to be restained (to protect them) or painted (as I did).  IF you’re undertaking this project and your mouldings have a gloss finish, giving them a light sand is probably a good idea.

Primer for the mouldings is really important.  At one window I didn’t use it (by accident – it was late at night – you know the rest…) and you could see the orange color of the stain coming through the paint.  No matter how many coats of paint I applied, the orange tint always showed.  Now with primer, you may still get the orangey color, BUT when you go to apply the paint color, the orange color won’t come through because the primer will block it.  Primer truly is amazing stuff!

After the one coat of primer, then it was time to paint.   I continued with the paint I used for the staircase which was, Snowfall White by Benjamin Moore (thanks BM for providing the paint!).

Here’s a snapshot of the first coat of paint.

In most areas, I applied 1 coat of primer + 2 coats of paint, but in some areas I did use 3 coats.  It really depended on the finish look after 2 coats.

Once the painting was complete, it was time to remove the tape.  I’ll forewarn you – Don’t quickly pull off the tape because you’re freshly painted mouldings might get ruined.  When the paint was dry (to the touch – it takes about 20-30 days to fully cure), I pulled off the tape and some of the paint came to.  To avoid that from happening, I used an X-acto blade to score the corner of where the moulding and wall meet…

…then removed the tape.

At this point, I noticed that some of the paint bled under the painters tape – so annoying, right?  I’ll tell ya, I tried lots of different ways to avoid this, but nothing worked.  I even googled it, and I found nada.  If you know a secret way, will you share?  Until then, this is what I did that worked best.

After removing the tape, I took the wall paint color and my Purdy angled brush, and slowly dragged it down the wall where the wall and moulding meet.  It worked perfectly!

And that’s about it…  Not too difficult, just alittle time consuming.  But believe me, the result is SO worth it.  Take it room by room – that’s what I’ve done.  Honestly, not all my rooms are completely finished, but most are and the result is so satisfying!

Here is the before and after of the living room…

Want to see some more?

Do you remember when I updated the door hardware? Check out how fresh it looks with the newly painted white mouldings…

And here’s one more.  Do you remember the DIY built-in coat rack behind my front door?  Well here it is now surrounded by freshly painted mouldings…

What a refreshing update!  Well I have a few more painting projects that I worked on over the Summer that still need to be shared, so check back soon!

What painting projects did you work on this past Summer?

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Serenity Now, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

How-To Paint Laminate Furniture

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 173 Comments on How-To Paint Laminate Furniture

I recently shared my newly styled bookshelves, but before I added all the colorful books and stylish accessories, I gave the bookcases a much needed makeover.

Since painting the space deep blue, the once faux-wood bookcases got lost in the dark hue of the walls, and they were ready for a transformation. A crisp, fresh coat of white was the perfect solution to make a statement.

I purchased these two bookcases from Walmart about 2 years ago.  Each were around $100 and were not the best of quality (duh, look at the pricetag).  Anyway, they fit the bill at the moment, but recently the shelves started to bow.  Aside from the decision to paint the bookcases, I also needed to make a few updates so they would last a few more years – I’ll get to more on that later in the post.

Before starting the process of painting the laminate, I did a little research on the process and the first article I saw was Lindsay’s post when she transformed her TV cabinet.  It was just what I needed to get me started.

Here’s the bookcase before…

To begin, I gave each bookcase a good sanding with my orbital sander (hands down, my favorite power tool). These bookcases are made of a particle board-like  composite with a faux-wood laminate exterior. It was important NOT to sand too much because otherwise the surface would get ruined (since it’s essentially paper), but at the same time it was important to get them ‘roughed-up’ so the paint would absorb into the surface.

Then the next key step was to prime all the surfaces.  Like usual, I used Kilz Primer which blocks, seals, and preps the surface for the paint to adhere to the surface.  Primer is important, but especially when painting over laminate (as I described above).  Unlike wood, laminate is a smooth, non-porous material, so it really needs something to ‘grab’ on to – primer will do the trick!  It’s suggested that primer takes 7 days to completely dry – you can take that advice if you’d like, but I didn’t (shame, shame on me, I know).  BUT, I did wait about 4 days before painting to really make sure the surface was good-to-go!

My good blogging friend, Diane, recently wrote a post on Gripper Paint.  She uses the Glidden brand (Kilz brand has a similar product), and even though I haven’t tried it, this is another great product to use as a primer.  The name says it all.

Sidetrack Steps…

At this point of the project, I made the decision to make a few much-needed updates to the structure and look of the bookcase.  Instead of moving on to directly painting the bookcase, I decided to replace the shelves and the backing material.

As I mentioned before, the shelves were really bowing – alot – so I took a trip to my hardware store and had a long piece of 2×12 cut into lengths needed for new shelves.

And check out the back of the bookcase…  UGLY!  It was basically paper and when I started to paint the surface, it started warping even more.  Once the decision was made to upgrade the back, I crumbled the paper-backing with one hand…

To fix the backing, I had a thin piece of plywood cut to size.  Then the Mister and I flipped the bookcase onto it’s front and nailed the plywood to the perimeter of the bookcase back. (This step might seem difficult, but please be assured it wasn’t – this was probably one of the easiest steps throughout this project).

Now back on track…

After sanding, priming,and making a few updates, it was time to PAINT!

I used a brush for the corners and a roller for the flat surfaces.  In certain areas, I used a brush first, then went over the same surface with the roller to achieve a smooth, stroke-less surface. Here’s the bookcase with the first coat of paint…

Here’s a tip.  If the surface isn’t sanded or not sanded enough, then the paint will bubble (because it’s not adhering to the surface).  Check this out…

This is a No-No!

I’ll be honest, these bookcases took about 3-4 coats until I felt they were fully covered. And even after they were dry to the surface, I didn’t put anything on the shelves for at least a week.  Paint takes about 30 days to fully cure and with the heavy books and accessories sitting on them, the last thing I would want would be to have them ruined or peel!

And this is the result…

So refreshing!  Then it was time to add the books and accessories.

And here’s a peak at how the bookcases look fully styled with books and accessories.  You can check out more by viewing this post.

Painting laminate wasn’t difficult, but I did find it more time consuming than painting wood.  To sum it up, the most important steps are to sand and prime all the surfaces before painting.  If you were to skip the 2 steps, your paint would have nothing to adhere to and would most likely peel right off.  Going into this project, I wasn’t sure of the result and if the paint would even stay since the surface was so smooth, but with the right preparation, I was thrilled with the outcome.

My First Annie Sloan Experience

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 114 Comments on My First Annie Sloan Experience

Yes, using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is an experience!

If you have no idea what I’m talking about and/or have no idea who Annie Sloan is, no worries, just keep on reading.  If you do know about ASCP, stick around and see if you’ve had a similar experience (I’d love to hear your thoughts).

I shared the result of my first Annie Sloan paint project yesterday and the response was unbelievable.  Thank you ALL for your kind comments – I was blown away by your kindness!  If you missed the reveal, I revamped and reupholstered a side chair for my desk.  Before the reupholstery could begin though, I painted the chair frame with my newly purchased Annie Sloan Chalk Paint.  I had never used this paint before and it was quite an experience.  I shared a little about it yesterday, but wanted to go more in-depth with a dedicated post.  So here we go…

I’ll start off by saying, I had some issues and jumped a few hurdles, but got through it. (but keep reading please…)

Many of my blogger friends have used the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and the results are amazing. One that really sticks out in my mind is Erin’s table and it’s probably because of the vibrant orange color with the antique dark wax.  This piece turned out amazing and after reading her post and seeing her pictures, I was sold and had to place my order.

In the meantime, I also (virtually) met Trish of The Purple Painted Lady and saw this piece which blew me away. Trish and I corresponded back and forth a few times.  She gave me amazing tips and techniques on using the paint and wax, so I thought I was on my way.

I ordered a quart of the French Linen color, which seemed similar to the taupe hue that can be seen throughout my home, and a can of the clear wax.  My shipment arrived a few days later and an anxiety came over me.  After ALL the many DIY projects that I’ve taken on, I was actually nervous to paint.  Yes, paint.  How could I be nervous??  I think I hyped up the idea of this magical formula so much that my gung-ho attitude went out the door.  And for me, when I’m nervous, things go wrong.  Does that happen to you?

I started off as I was instructed to (by Trish) and turn the can upside down for at least 60 seconds.  Basically, all the good stuff settles to the bottom and needs to be well mixed around. Of course, shake and stir as well.

Then I started painting.  Yup, I started painting WITHOUT stripping, sanding, or priming the existing wood.  That’s the beauty of chalk paint.  It’s designed to adhere to most any surface including wood, concrete, vinyl, and even bathtubs (I learned that from Trish too).  Plus it provides 50% more coverage compared to latex, so the 1 quart can goes a LONG WAY – for this chair, I hardly used any paint.

So coat 1 went on just like usual. Using my favorite Purdy brush, I applied a light coat of this gorgeous color.

Then coat 2.

Two coats was just enough for most areas, but a few spots need three.

Done.  Trish stressed that it wasn’t good to paint in the heat, but I was just fine since I was indoors, in the A/C – ideal conditions!

I wasn’t sure what the result of the chalk paint would be.  I was guessing it would be chalky (obviously), but it’s not.  Honestly, if I didn’t know it was chalk paint, I would think the paint was simply a latex… Until it dries.  The finish on the dried chalk paint is very flat and dull.  You can tell it is in need of something for a top coat.  What is that something?  Well, wax.

Why Use Wax?

Chalk Paint™ is very porous and the wax will penetrate the paint and literally fuse with it making it very strong. Waxing the paint provides protection. Chalk Paint™ in nature- is a very flat chalky finish and over time could be effected by oils from your skin, stains from beverages, dirty fingertips. They can permanently stain the paint. The wax finish is what seals and protects your piece. – The Purple Painted Lady

A day later, I jumped in and started the wax process.  I’ve painted before, but have never applied wax.  Not even car wax, so I was definitely entering unchartered territories.  Again, I was nervous, but sucked it up and followed the steps (once again stated by Trish).

The wax is smooth, kind of like Crisco, and should be applied in “very thin, uniform coats”.

Remember this – VERY THIN, UNIFORM COATS

This is the basic process –

  1. Start by taking a spoonful of wax.
  2. Put it on a paper plate.
  3. Dip the end bristles of your brush* into the wax.
  4. Apply the wax in the same direction as the painted brush strokes

* The brush you choose is important.  It CAN’T be a new brush and really should be a specific wax brush.  I used a well-worn brush that was leftover from my fence project.  I really should have used a true wax brush, but being the frugal gal that I am, decided not to get it with my purchase (probably a mistake). As I always preach suggest, the right tools make the job much easier.  I guess I haven’t learned my own lesson yet…

FYI – These instructions are for applying clear wax only, not the dark wax.  That has a whole set of different directions that I haven’t even looked at yet.

Trish at The Purple Painted Lady has an AMAZING Q + A on her website and every issue / problem that you may run into is on there.  She gives a very thorough step-by-step of how to apply the wax, so it’s a MUST READ!

But of course, I ran into an issue.  Here goes.  I applied the wax, waited a few hours, but it still was tacky.  I waited another 24 hours, but it was STILL tacky.  What did I do wrong?  I immediately sent an email to Trish and this was the subject line: Need HELP with wax! (that should get her attention, right?)

Like always, I heard back from her right away with a thorough explanation and she directed me right to her Q+A page.  I scrolled down and found my answer.

Thankfully “my issue” is one of the most common… too much wax!  I went over the wax with a cloth and a few days later, it was all dry and smooth to the touch.

Boy, what an experience, but I’m glad I stuck with it and learned from my mistakes. Trying something new always has it’s hurdles, but once you get over them, it’s often smooth sailing.  I’m thrilled with the result of my newly reupholstered chair and every time I look at it, I have a chuckle about the days when I wanted to pull my hair out figuring out what I did wrong.

And here’s the finished result.

I’ve received quite a few questions on, “Is the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint worth the cost?”.  It’s difficult to say depending on the look and style piece you want to achieve. With the bonus of no stripping, sanding, or priming, plus how much this paint covers compared to latex paint, it’s worth to give it a try!  You may just fall in love…

Since I’m still a novice ASCP user,  I’d LOVE to hear about your experiences with this magical formula. What issues have you had if any and how have you overcome them?  Do you love the paint or don’t think it’s worth the cost?  Please Share!

If you want to check out my reupholstery tutorial, click here.  And if you’re interested in learning alot more about how to apply the chalk paint and wax, click here to visit Trish’s website.

DIY: Reupholstered Side Chair

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 85 Comments on DIY: Reupholstered Side Chair

I’ve always had the desire to attempt the process of reupholstering a chair.  Quite a few of my blogger friends did and the results were amazing, but I was still reluctant – Could I really do it? 

After reading this post, for some reason, “it” clicked and I was on-board.  My mission of finding a chair had started.  I needed something new anyway for my desk since I’ve been using this chair which has no seat padding and gets uncomfortable after a while. It took some time, but one day when on a thrifting adventure with my mom, I spotted it and bells started to ring.

Let me start off by saying, I have no upholstery skills, so this is something that absolutely ANYONE can do.  If I can do it, so can you!  Don’t get me wrong, there were quite a few times that I wanted to give up, but I kept chug, chug, chugging along and I’m thrilled with the results of a comfortable, stylish, and inexpensive desk chair.

It all started off here…

I began by removing the fabric from the back of the chair.  The old fabric was secured with ALOT of staples (which brought back memories of the carpet on the stairs), so using plyers I (and the mister) removed each and every one.  It took a while and part of the surrounding wood on the chair got slightly damaged, but it ended up being fine since the new fabric and trim covered it later.

The seat upholstery I left since it was in fine condition and the new fabric would cover right over.

Once the fabric was stripped down, it was time to give this chair a paint makeover.  Up until this point, I had never before tried the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and thought this would be the perfect piece.  Because of the ASCP formula, there is no need to sand before painting and I was ALL FOR THAT! Holla…

I had some hurdles to overcome with the paint and wax, but all in all, I was happy with the result.  My experience with the paint is a story in itself, which you’ll have to wait for later this week. (Click HERE to read about My First Annie Sloan Experience)

Anyway, here is me painting the chair…

Two coats later, I then added the clear wax as top coat.

Once that was done and dry (remember, I’ll chat more about my ASCP experience later this week), the reupholstery work began.  I was psyched to start this part of the project.  I chose a brown and white chevron pattern for the back panel, along with a burnt orange and white patterned fabric for the seat and back. The chevron fabric I had leftover from a pillow and table runner, while the orange fabric is a panel that I purchased from Target to use for this project and some new pillows (that I have yet to make – story of my life).

I started with the chevron fabric first and stapled it to the inside of the wood trim surround in place of where the previous fabric was. (this is a few from the front of the chair)

Once the fabric was stapled all around, this is how it looked from the back…

Then it was time to work on the seat and back reupholstery.  I started with the back.  I added back the original foam insert that was previously used, stapled all the way around, and finished by trimming the leftover fabric with scissors.

Then I used the same steps for the seat.

Once I exhausted out my staple gun, this was the result…

Eek! Those edges don’t look good.  BUT WAIT… here’s how I fixed it.

Trim!

Trim is the key to novice upholstery perfection!  Using a good ole’ hot glue gun, I added the trim surround to cover all the ragged edges of where I used the scissor to trim the fabric.

And minutes later, this was the result.

Beauty, right?

I am thrilled with the final upholstery project and glad that through some tough parts (mostly the removal of the old staples and fabric), I stuck with it.  This chair really gives such a fun flair to my office area. The chair is temporarily in this spot while my front room / office space is under remodel.

And here’s me working away (thanks to my 6 yr. old for snapping this shot) …

Have you ever reupholstered a piece of furniture?  Did you find the first time easier or more difficult than you thought? What DIY projects have you been working on lately?

Kitchen Makeover Update: One Year Later

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Kitchen. 26 Comments on Kitchen Makeover Update: One Year Later

One of the biggest projects to date that I tackled was my kitchen makeover.  I can’t believe it’s been a year, but this time last Summer, I was finishing up the final details and sharing it with you.

Since that time, I’ve been flooded with questions (and many kind comments – thank you), and thought a One-Year-Followup post including answers + an update a year later would be interesting and helpful for those thinking of tackling something similar.

There were alot of details and updates that went into the entire Kitchen Makeover, resulting in quite a few posts to explain all the steps.
Here they are:

Since this is a followup post, let’s start with some of the reader questions that I received related to…

painting the cabinets

From Shani:
it is beautifully done! i painted my cabinets in my previous house, and found that if i hit the cabinets hard (with a pot handle etc) that the paint chipped..do you find that to be the case? great job!

From Kyra:
Did you use primer on all of the cabinets ? I would think you would want to use primer everywhere? DId you sand the cabinets first? You don’t mention it but I would think you’d want to.

From Julie:
Looks great!!! Did you not use a primer on these..or did you tint the primer? Also did you sand these first?How is the paint holding up?

I absolutely used Primer and wouldn’t do any project like this, without! Primer is key to a great finish and a long-lasting result.  To start off, I gave the cabinets a light sanding, then applied one coat of Kilz Primer. When using the Kilz Primer, sanding isn’t really needed, but I did it anyway to remove the sheen from the cabinet face.  Plus the Kilz Primer is great for blocking the wood grain and stain from showing through.

Once dry about 24 hours later (the paint can says wait 7 days for it to fully cure, but I didn’t), I applied 2 coats (in some areas 3 coats) of Benjamin Moore Aura Paint. Their Aura paint is a primer + paint in one, but I still felt that it was important to use the Kilz primer first.

 

From Stachia:
What color and brand of paint did you use for your kitchen cabinets?

The paint color that I used for the cabinets was Benjamin Moore Berkshire Beige in a semi-gloss finish using their Aura Paint line (primer and paint in one).  A semi-gloss finish is important to use on cabinetry and/or furniture so the surface can easily be cleaned and/or wiped off.

updating the countertops

From Amy:
Just one question, does the countertop have bumps, or does it just appear that way in the photo?

My Response:
With the Rust-Oleum kit, the countertop is slightly bumpy to imitate the look of a natural stone surface. It’s not overly bumpy, but also not completely smooth.

From sl:
I would love to do this to my kitchen countertop. Yours look GREAT!!! I am still trying to convince my hubby. Did you put the color chip on the backsplash and edges? Is so was it hard to get them in these spots? Is not, does it look odd without color chips? Thanks for any info you can share.

My Response:
Yes, I did put the chips on the countertop edge and backsplash. With the tool that is provided, it sprays the chips all over and will cover the vertical surfaces. If there are spots that don’t get covered, you can throw chips on them, which will adhere because the adhesive is very sticky. All surfaces of the counter, absolutely needed to be covered with the chips or you won’t achieve the quality needed to hold up.

From Marti:
Could you please elaborate on your comment that the chips must cover all areas or the quality needed to hold up won’t be achieved. Do you mean that the chips facilitate the hardening process, and without them, full hardening won’t occur? Also, did you notice any odor at any stage in the process? I have an allergy to paint. Many thanks.

My Response:
When you are at the point of adding the “chips”, you want cover the entire countertop surface – the more, the better. After the chips are added, the next day you put on the sealer (top protective coat). If the countertop is not covered enough with the chips, your old countertop color will show through. The chips DO NOT facilitate the hardening process, but the chips are essentially the color that changes the countertop. So the first coat is the glue, second is the chips a.k.a. “color”, and the last coat is the protective seal. There was very little odor throughout the process. I was very worried about this with having two young kids, but it really wasn’t an issue. Honestly, we ended up going out for meals during the process since the kitchen was OFF LIMITS!

From Kristin:
Hi there! You mentioned the peeling of the top coat when the tape isn’t properly removed. We just did these countertops this weekend and had one spot where it did that. What did you use to fix the area??? On another note I would totally agree that the difficulty level is at a 2. It was SO easy and the instructions were great. The scoring of the tape, though, really is vital.

My Response:
If part of the countertop peels after you’ve applied the “chips” and sealer,  the instructions say to go through the entire process again for that specific spot.

Overall the process of the Rustoleum Transformations Kit was not difficult and the instructions were very thorough.  Included is a comprehensive video that is a must to watch! We took the weekend to work on the project, but it didn’t take all day.  Also, thankfully there wasn’t ANY ODOR – big checkmark 😉

I received quite a few questions and comments about the Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations Kit.  I have not had the pleasure of using the product, so I really can’t comment, BUT some readers that used the white or lighter colors had a bad experience with it yellowing.  Has this happened to you?

tiling over laminate

I guess my tutorial on this part of the makeover was easy to follow (or no one liked it – hehe) because I didn’t receive one single question.  Anyway, with tiling over the 3″ high laminate backsplash, the kitchen really has a custom and unique look.  Often seen in typical kitchens, is a 3″ high backsplash to match the countertop which is sealed at the joint so no water or liquid will leak behind the base cabinets.  Great concept, but very ordinary and not really interesting.  Because we were “painting” over our existing countertops, there was no way to remove the laminate backsplash, so I just tiled right over it!  It was easy and there was nothing different or special than tiling any other surface.

adding decorative brackets

By introducing the decorative brackets, the kitchen has a sophisticated aesthetic with interesting architectural details.  Before, there was one long row of cabinets, but now the brackets add an unexpected element.

Update One Year Later

Now that I’ve highlighted a few of the popular questions from the makeover, it’s time for me to share some images and updates a year later.

Thankfully the cabinets have REALLY held up well over the past year.  We’re a family of four, with two young kids, so the kitchen is used ALOT!  It has received so much wear and tear, but you wouldn’t know it by looking at the cabinets.

Unfortunately, I wish I could say that about the countertop.  Within the first few weeks of using the Transformations Kit, the newly “painted” surface started to scratch, show spots and wear.  That being said, I am still happy with the overall look and how much the kitchen changed by using the Rustoleum product.  I’m often asked, “Is the product worth it?  Is it more of a temporary fix?”… well that’s difficult to answer.  It comes down to your budget and how long you plan on living with the kitchen.  The product is around $250-$300 (the last time I saw it at HD or Lowes), which is pricey, but at the same time we didn’t want to invest in a more expensive countertop.  Honestly, looking back knowing the imperfections today, I’m still glad we chose this product.  A bigger, more $$$ kitchen makeover might be ahead of us in 3-5+ years and until then, the updates we made are just fine (and actually more than fine). So my roundabout answer is, if you have the money and plan on keeping the countertops for 5-10+ years, go with another surface, but if you’re on a budget and/or want a quick and on-budget solution, the Rustoleum Transformations Kit is a great idea.

Here are some images of the kitchen that I just took yesterday.

I’d like to stress that even though I’m an in-real-life designer, my home is not staged and looks like most everyone elses.  The kitchen is often the most messiest place in our home and before cleaning it up to shoot some pics, this is what it looked like…

You can see the multiple DIY projects that I’m in the midst of.

Does your kitchen look like this ever?

Thankfully a few minutes later I got it all cleaned up and this is what it looks like a year after the makeover…

These are some of the scratches and wear marks on the countertop.

And this is a stain (completely my fault) where I dropped super glue.

And like I said, the cabinets have held up GREAT, but there are touch-ups that will be needed here and there.  For instance, the shelves on the open cabinet get alot of wear multiple times a day when I take out and put back the baskets.

But there really is no reason to complain, because this Benjamin Moore paint was easy to apply and has held up SO well.

These pictures were just taken yesterday and I haven’t made any paint touch ups since the day they were painted a year ago.

And this quote – a favorite of mine -sits on the window sill by the kitchen sink and keeps me in check many moments throughout the day.

So that’s the makeover update one year later.

Are there questions that you have that I haven’t answered?  If so, Ask Me, and I’ll add them to the post.

Glass Bottle Turned Candle

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 14 Comments on Glass Bottle Turned Candle

I’ve been working on so many big projects lately (like the stairs, painting, and this chair) that I wanted to take a quick break and create something super quick and easy to share with you. One of my favorite drinks, especially in the summer, is Saratoga Sparkling Water. Since I live in the town where this water is manufactured, it’s available most everywhere and everytime I see the gorgeous cobalt blue bottle, I just stare at it’s beauty.

I never get the nerve to throw the bottles away and have been stockpiling them in my garage waiting for a DIY project to pop into my head. And finally, here’s my first creation with the blue beauties…

Cute, right?  And it’s uber-easy to make.  Here’s how…

I started off with:

  • my used Saratoga Sparkling Water glass bottle with screw on top *
  • Lamp oil or citronella oil
  • Large Wicks (I found these replacement wicks for tiki torches at Target)
  • twine
  • hot glue gun
  • drill

* other glass bottles like wine bottles, spaghetti jars, mason jars, etc could also work to create this type of a candle. (check out the small Barefoot wine bottle in the pic below)

Once I was finished drinking my sparkly, I had the Mister drill a hole in the bottle cap (sorry no pic here because he did it while I was out n’ about).  The hole should be slightly smaller than the wick so it fits snugly. Once the hole is drilled, the wick went in.

We then filled up the glass bottle with the lantern oil and tested out the new candle.

And it worked!

Then it was time to add some bling (nautical bling, not diamond bling).  I love the Saratoga lettering, but decided to add some rope as an accent.  I’m probably the only DIY blogger who hasn’t created something using rope, so here it goes.

Starting at the back of the bottle, I added a small dab of hot glue and attached the end of the rope.

I continued the rope around and around and around…

…and then once I was at the end, I trimmed the rope and added another dab of hot glue.

Complete and ready to enjoy!

And here are some details…

Pretty simple to create, right?!

Have you ever upcycled a glass bottle or wine bottle?

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

Two Toned Mirror with Faux Silver Leaf Detail

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 2 Comments on Two Toned Mirror with Faux Silver Leaf Detail

Another summer week is underway.  I can’t believe how fast it’s flying by, but I’m excited to be sharing a new DIY project with you – let’s get started…

Sometimes a small added detail truly makes a piece look completely new again.  While updating the buffet in my dining room with the new lamps and sunburst mirror, I moved the dark wood mirror that was once over the mantel to this revamped area.  I’ve had the mirror for about 9 years and it was beautiful, but I felt like it needed a little pick-me-up and decided adding a little something around the inner rim would be the perfect update.

The mirror has been seen in many of my mantel makeovers, like this one decorated for Spring 2012. Since it was in fine condition, I was weary about messing-it-up, but I took the leap of faith anyway. Silver leaf detail was the first thought that came to mind.

The addition of silver leaf, like in the dresser below by Jenny of Little Green Notebook, adds a beautiful and sophisticated accent, but since I was hesitant about how much detail would be appropriate for this mirror, I decided to use another method to get the silver leaf look, but make it totally faux.

Beautiful and I’d love to give silver leafing a try one day, but for my mirror, the faux way was alot easier and less time consuming.

Faux Silver Leaf

To achieve the silver leaf look, I used Krylon Spray Paint in Caramel Latte, which is the same color used for my lamp revamp – yes the lamps that now site right next to the mirror. LOVE this color. The cap shows it has more of a gold hue than silver, but the result on the mirror edge and the lamps is a more silver / gold combo.

Instead of the traditional way of using spray paint – is there a traditional way? – I, sprayed a small amount into the cap (in a ventilated space, of course)…

…then using a small paint sponge, I dipped the edge into the paint.

Then I lightly dabbed the sponge onto the leaf detail of the mirror edge.  I went slowly at first not sure of how much would be appropriate.

Well, hello there camera lense staring at me 😉

After I knew the look I liked, then I continued around the entire mirror, and this is the result…

The edge detail around the mirror can be seen more now with the newly added faux silver leaf touch, and the mirror is updated enough to look like new. Within 5 minutes this mirror got a complete makeover and it was really easy!  Hanging the mirror wasn’t difficult either with a method I’ve been using for years AND I’m going to spill the beans tomorrow – don’t miss it.

Have you ever used spray paint in a different or unconventional way?  Have you ever updated a piece of furniture with silver leaf?  It’s surely something I’d love to try!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie


DIY Stair Makeover: REVEAL

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Paint, Stain, Stair Makeover. 88 Comments on DIY Stair Makeover: REVEAL

The day has finally arrived for me to share the final reveal of my staircase makeover.

Alot of progress has been made since I announced and started this latest DIY endeavour only 3 weeks ago.  It’s amazing how one change can totally impact the aesthetic of a space.  As you know, my home is my experimental playground which is constantly work in progress, and this stair makeover has been an incredible update.

Take a look at the result…

And here is the progress that I’ve made from start to finish…

Amazing change, right?!

Since my last post where I left you off at the staining of the stair treads, I’ve been a non-stop painting machine! And actually, I’m still painting (which I’ll get to more in a bit).  After the filling of the holes, the sanding of the wood, and the staining of the treads, it was time to paint the stair risers, the balusters, and the banister – and that’s what I’ll be sharing details about in this post.

In my last post, I left you off here…

So after that, it was time to prime!

Whenever I have a big painting job (like my kitchen makeover last summer), I always turn to Benjamin Moore as my go-to paint line.  Their paints are of really high quality and it applies with an effortless manor.  Since this project was pretty big, I immediately turned to them for assistance and they kindly donated the product for this project (Thanks BM – I love you)!  Their Aura paint line is like no other and actually has a primer built-in (which is why my kitchen cabinets came out so great and still look as fabulous today).  BUT, since I was working with a white hue, I thought it would be best to use an actual primer FIRST, then the Aura paint on top.

To start off, I first taped off all the areas that weren’t to be covered with the primer and that was basically just the newly stained treads and the surrounding walls.

Once everything was properly taped, it was time to apply one coat of Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Primer.  I learned recently that the primer coat does not need to be a thick coat  – a thin coat just to cover the wood surface is perfect.  As long as your coating the wood, it’s blocking the stain from coming through and preparing the surface for the paint color.

All primed and ready for paint!

Once the primer was dry, which didn’t take long (the stairs were thirsty!), it was time for the 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Aura paint.  For this project, I chose the color Snowfall White, which is essentially white, but has a slightly warmer hue (no blue undertones).

And of course I’m using my favorite Purdy Brushes 😉 (I wasn’t paid to say that – just sharin’ the love).

I mentioned that I applied 2 coats of paint, but in some areas a 3rd coat was needed.  Thin layers of paint are better than thick, so 3-4 coats isn’t unlikely.  It’s best to apply thinner coats than to end up with drips!  If you do though (like me), continue to go over the drips with your brush.  To avoid fast drying paint so you can fix those drips, it’s important to use a paint additive like Floetrol.  Learn more about that from my post on Tips for Painting Furniture.

The painting around the balusters took a long time and it was the most grueling part, but honestly looking back, it wasn’t that bad and it’s done – YAY!  Once I was finished with the white areas (the risers and the balusters), it was time to paint the newel post and banister.  A few people thought I was crazy when I said I was going to paint the post and banister instead of staining it to match the treads, but I’m glad I stuck with the idea, because I love it!

I decided to use the same color as my kitchen cabinets which is Benjamin Moore Texas Leather. It was one of my all-time favorite colors and can be seen here and there throughout my home.  Painting the post and railing gave the stairs a unique touch rather than a typical stained railing.

One itty bitty part that I didn’t mention above when painting the risers white was that there was a large gap at the edge where the treads and risers meet.  When painting, I didn’t have to be perfect with the white paint because I knew I would be adding a small piece of cove moulding afterwards.  Take a look…

I found the cove moulding at Lowe’s and it was about $2.50 for an 8′ long piece.  It actually wasn’t wood and instead a plastic composite. (The wood version was $5+, so this less expensive version was just fine).  At this point of the project, I dragged the Mister  back in to help out.  He measured the length of each tread and cut the cove moulding using a miter box.

Using Liquid Nails, we adhered the moulding to the tread/riser to cover the gap.

And Voila, the gap was hidden!

Once the paint was completely dry, the unveiling was about to begin a.k.a. the removal of the painters tape…

A little trick that I’ve learned along the way is to score the joint where the tape and the painted surface meet with a sharp razor.

This allows the tape to be easily removed and avoids the paint from coming off where it’s supposed to stick (see below where I didn’t score the joint).

Once the tape had all been removed, the stairs were basically done – not too bad right?!

And now it’s time for a ton of pictures (I hope you don’t mind)!

Looking from the front room into the foyer

Close up of the banister

The stenciled foyer wall looking into the front room

Psst…  You probably didn’t realize, but check out all the mouldings in the foyer and front room – I painted them white too. YES, as I was painting the stairs, I just continued right around the room (+ the dining room and kitchen).  Those oak mouldings had to go!  My goodness, the house feels so much fresher now – more on that soon.

That’s a whole lotta dark wood and I love it 🙂

I definitely was apprehensive about removing the carpet from the stairs and risking the possibility that one of my young kiddos (or me) could fall – carpet has a lot more padding than hard wood.  Thankfully this is my awesome solution…

Sisal Carpet Treads!

These carpet treads are perfect and I love them.  The kind folks at Natural Area Rugs sent me these attractive woven sisal treads which have a cotton twill border and non-slip back.  They’re ideal for giving the added protection for people walking up/down the stairs, plus they protect the actual stairs.  After all that work, the last thing I’d want are scuffs and scrapes!  But the beauty is that you can still see much of the stairs unlike a typical stair runner which covers the treads and risers.

The carpet treads have velcro on the back, so they easily attach to the stairs with a sticky back.

I’m ecstatic about this solution!

And it’s complete! What do you think?  Have you ever considered giving your stairs a makeover? Thank you for following along over the past few weeks!

Related Posts:
The Beginning of a New DIY Project
Phase 1: A New DIY Venture Begins
Phase 2: Filling Holes & Staining Treads
Kitchen Makeover Reveal
Stenciled Foyer Wall

Monogrammed Chevron Pallet Tray

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 39 Comments on Monogrammed Chevron Pallet Tray

As a Blogger, finding support throughout the blogging community is important for blog growth, friendship, and creative inspiration. For the past several weeks, I’ve joined forces with a few fabulous DIY bloggers and we’ve been helping each other with various aspects of blogging.  Along with our helpful “chats”, we were given a Blogging Challenge by Beckie of Infarrantly Creative to create a DIY project using specific materials – additional items could be added, but it was a must to use the required five.

What did I create you ask?

Well take a look… (and then keep on reading for the details)

Included in our Blogging 2 Better group was Monica & Jess of East Coast Creative, Allison of House of Hepworths, Brook of Being Brook, and Kim of Sand & Sisal – all incredibly talented and inspiring women and friends!

To begin, this is the list of items that we were required to use, and actually I pretty much just stuck to the list and didn’t use many additional items.

Fun, but definitely challenging!  I was quite nervous at first trying to think about what to create with these 5 items and then it came to me…  A tray that would be perfect to bring items in and out while BBQing (or even just to display on the coffee table – you know I love trays).

Once I had the idea, my project was quickly underway, especially since I already had a stash of pallets in my garage for a few other projects.

Item #1 – Pallet

To start off, I determined the size of the tray that I wanted to make (17″ x 17″), so the Mister and I measured (4) 17″ long pallet pieces.

Using the reciprocating saw, we buzzed right through that wood :-/

I’m always leary about using the BIG TOOLS (even though my friend Brittany has empowered me with the right skills), but I helped out and made a boo-boo when cutting. No problemo – the Mister came to the rescue with his Band Saw and cleaned the edges right up.  In no time the (4) pieces of pallet were ready to make into a box.

Lining up the corners of the pallet planks, we hammered 2 nails into each corner.

Onto the bottom of the tray…

The only material used that wasn’t on the list was a piece of 1/8″ thick plywood that I used for the bottom of the tray.  Once the pallet “frame” was made, we measured the distance to the outer edges and cut it using the Band Saw.

Once the plywood was cut to the right dimensions, we nailed it onto the bottom of the pallet “frame”.

I gave the overall tray a quick sanding, and within 20 minutes it was done!

Now onto the fun part…  Using my second and third required items, fabric and Mod Podge, I lined the bottom of the tray with a brown and white chevron fabric.

To start off, I spread a nice coat of Mod Podge along the entire bottom of the tray.

Item #2 Mod Podge

Then I added the fabric onto the glue-y surface and made sure to get it nicely in the corners as well.  Make sure the fabric size is larger than the surface because in the next step, I’ll show you how I trimmed it.

Item #3 – Fabric

Once the fabric was well stuck to the Mod Podge, it was time to trim the fabric (this can be done before the glue underneath is dry).  Using a very sharp blade, I dragged it along the edge of the tray to trim the excess fabric.

Once the fabric was cut, I add a layer of Mod Podge OVER the fabric – no worries, it will dry clear!

Once the Mod Podge was dry (fully about 1 day later), it was time to add my last 2 items – the stencil and the color coral.

Using a new Word Doc, I found a font I liked (credit valley) and printed a large letter ‘B’ in lowercase for Burger (my last name).  Then I cut it out with a scissor and traced the outline on the fabric.

Item #4 – Stencil

Then filled in the stencil with a beautiful color coral (it needed about 4 coats, but it didn’t take long).

Item #5 – Coral

And here it is all complete!  My Blogging 2 Better Challenge was done and I was quite happy with the result.  What do you think?  Perfect for the indoors or out!

And you of course have to check out the other B2B Challenge Projects using the same materials.  It’s truly amazing how they’re all SO DIFFERENT!

Rustic Industrial Storage Bins by Monica & Jess of East Coast Creative Blog

Dangle Earring Frame by Allison of House of Hepworths

Fabric Wall Art by Brook of Being Brook

Pallet Art Surfboard by Kim of Sand & Sisal

I’m sure you know all these ladies, but if not, you are REALLY missing out!  Be sure to visit each of their great Challenge projects, as well as their daily DIY creations.

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

5 Minute Lamp Revamp with Spray Paint and Ribbon

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 8 Comments on 5 Minute Lamp Revamp with Spray Paint and Ribbon

For a while, I was on the hunt for a pair of lamps for the dining room buffet. They couldn’t be overly large, but something that would be unique and add a soft glow.  I had brought home a few options, but nothing was quite right.  Then one day when randomly shopping at HomeGoods for another project, I spotted this treasure –>

It wasn’t perfect, but immediately I had an idea up my sleeve.

Could I ever just leave anything alone?  NOPE!

My immediate idea was to spray paint the globe, but I wasn’t sure what color.  Should the lamp be subtle or dramatic?  Since the lamps were a nice piece of change (around $30 x 2), I thought a quieter color would “live” longer.  So, I hit up my favorite spot at my favorite home improvement store and chose a taupe color with a hint of gold.  Interesting, right?

The color name is Caramel Latte  – sounds scrumptious (I must have missed my morning coffee that day and got my fix another way, hehe).

Before starting the exciting transformation, I covered all the areas of the lamp that I wanted to protect.  So ONLY the basket-style globe was exposed and ready.

Now, I was armed and ready! I started off spraying my new fav color on the black globe area of the lamp. Nope, didn’t work. 

I wanted it to be lighter, so instead I first spray painted the globe white (basically as a primer)…

…THEN applied the Caramel Latte Color.  Yes, that’s what I wanted!

Perfection – DONE! well maybe not?

You know me…  I can never leave well enough alone.  I wanted to embellish the shades a little, so I decided to add two rows of ribbon in a taupe and burnt orange color.

Adding Ribbon to Embellish a Shade

  1. At the lampshade seam, dab a small amount of hot glue on the shade and attach one end of the ribbon.
  2. Wrap the ribbon around the entire shade (no need to glue all the way around). Trim the ribbon, fold over the edge so it doesn’t fray, and glue.
  3. Complete!

In about 10 minutes (well, for me it was 20 because I had two), these lamps got a total makeover and are completely unique for my space!

I hope I’ve inspired you with my Lamp Revamp to think-outside-the-box and create or transform something in your home.  Sometimes with a little spray paint and an idea, your options are limitless!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie