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DIY: Installing Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile. 106 Comments on DIY: Installing Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile

I hope you had a nice weekend and if you’re in Sandy’s path, stay safe! We’ll see what she brings our way later today and tomorrow.

In the meantime, I spent much of last week working on my next Lowe’s Creative Team challenge.  This month’s project was a “create anything” project and it was the perfect opportunity to redo the foyer floor.  This project has been one that I’ve wanted to tackle since moving into our home.  The difficulty always has been, how.

The entrance into our home is not only the foyer, but also the space that leads to the garage, our laundry room, pantry, coat closet, and powder room. As being the major entrance and exit path into the home + all these important spaces, I couldn’t grasp the idea of a long period of downtime for this area.  With 2 kids and a busy schedule, it was mere impossible to not make this an easy 1 day project.  So that’s where the how came in.  How could it happen?

Well about a year ago, I learned about Groutable Luxury Vinyl Tile.  This treasure has changed my life and saved a whole lotta headaches!  I shared my first LVT project earlier this year when I redid my parents floor, and since have used it in many other spots like my bathroom and the kids.

When the time came to tackle this project, it was really the only product that would provide the desired look of ceramic tile (you would never know it’s vinyl) , plus the quick turnaround of starting and finishing in ONE DAY.

What’s incredible about this tile is that once it’s finished, it looks and feels EXACTLY like ceramic tile.  You would never know it’s vinyl.  Believe me, I would not use something that has a fake look!

My existing floor was in really good condition. None of the tiles were cracked or chipped, and the real reason for the new floor was to aesthetically update the space.

If you plan on tackling this project, it’s important to evaluate the condition of your existing floor.  You may need to remove the existing floor or put down a leveler before installing the new floor.  Chat with your local Lowe’s customer service peeps.  My local guy was really helpful in directing me in the right direction.

To start off, I gathered my supplies for the tile installation part:

  • Triangle Ruler
  • X-acto Blade
  • Spacers ( I used 1/8 spacers)
  • A pencil
  • Snips
  • Cutting surface

There are various ways to start laying the tile.  Most commonly, experts say to start the first tile in the center of the room, but for me I wanted a whole tile when you walk into the front door, so I started at that point.  Since the room isn’t a perfect square, there really is no “center”.

Installing the tiles is really easy.  Similar to regular peel-and-stick tiles (even though these luxury vinyl tiles are much thicker and more durable), you do just that…

Peel the backing off the corner edge (not the entire tile).

Using spacers, lay down the tile starting at the corner edge.

Once the tile is positioned in place, peel off the remainder of the paper backing.

For my foyer floor, I layed as many whole tiles first, then went back and tackled all the tiles that needed to be cut afterwards.

For the tiles that need to be cut, here’s how I tackled them…

  1. Mark the cut with a pencil.
  2. Use a triangle to draw a line and mark the cut.
  3. Score the tile surface 2-3 times with an X-acto blade.
  4. Gently snap the tile where it was scored.

For difficult, none straight cuts, here’s how I tackled them…

  1. Sketch the design to be cut on the tile surface.
  2. Cut out the design using an X-acto blade.
  3. See if it fits and make needed adjustments.
  4. Stick it down. It doesn’t need to be perfect because once it’s grouted, many imperfections aren’t obvious.

I put together a quick video (it’s pretty amateur, so don’t poke fun please) of how I cut the pieces if you need more know-how!

 

Ok, so once the tiles are set, you can move RIGHT ON TO GROUTING.  That’s one of the beauties about groutable vinyl tile – there’s no downtime or waiting like with ceramic tile or natural stone.

To prep for grouting, it’s important to cover the areas where you don’t want grout.  Basically that’s the base mouldings around the room. For this, I find it easiest and best to apply painters tape around the perimeter of the room.

Onto my favorite part because at this point, you’re more than halfway done 🙂

For the grouting steps, I gathered my supplies of:

  • Bowl of water
  • Tile sponge (one side has a sponge, the other side is abrasive)
  • Tile float
  • Luxury Vinyl Tile Grout

The tiling process for vinyl tile is exactly the same as if it were ceramic, but the grout itself is different.  There is specially made pre-mixed grout specific for luxury vinyl tile. I used pre-mixed grout made by Precision Components which I found at Lowe’s in the same section as the groutable vinyl tiles.  This premixed sanded acrylic grout has “good flexural strength and adhesion” and is recommended to use over traditional cement grouts.

*Don’t use sanded grout that you mix yourself!

I started applying the grout by the stairs, so I knew I could back out of the space without stepping on what I just grouted. Even though it’s okay to walk on the tiles, the grout does need time to set and dry.  Once ready to apply the grout, I found it best to use a low angle and then a higher angle to wipe the excess away.  Once the joint is filled with grout, you want to wipe as much away as possible so not to have huge clumps of grout left on the tile – it just makes more work to clean up.

Once you’ve got a section of about 3′ x 3′ covered in grout, use a damp sponge to wipe away the grout.

You can easily notice the areas that have been grouted and the areas that haven’t (yet).

Once the grout is completed, I took the tape off.  It’s very important – and I’m only sharing this from a bad experience – to remove the tape when the grout is still somewhat wet otherwise once it’s hardened it’s near impossible (been there, done that).

Once the tape is off, the floor was done!  YES.  Major Project COMPLETE.  This is a huge checkmark off my DIY list. Here’s the result…

This is the hallway that leads to the garage with the doors to the washer/dryer on the left and the doors to the coat closet/pantry on the right.  I recently added a splash of color to this door and since it’s metal, it’s been a great place to display the kids artwork, coupons, etc.  I’ll share more on that in a future post.

Do you see a little something sitting at the front door?  That’s our new little 4 month old kitty.  She’s so cute and she loves the new floor – hehe!

Groutable Vinyl Tile PROS and CONS

Affordable – Luxury Vinyl Tile runs about $1.00 – $2.00 sq. ft. and compared to ceramic or natural stone, it is very inexpensive. The tiles which I purchased from Lowe’s were $1.18 and the premixed grout (for my 200 sq. ft. space, I used 2 tubs) cost $8/each.  Ceramic tile is available in a range of prices, but usually starts at $2 per sq. ft. , so the savings right there is 50%.

No Experience Required – And I’m completely being honest with you.  It’s easy and if you’ve never tiled before, you can do it!   I think a person with little experience can complete this project with ease.  Measuring and cutting is really the most difficult part of the project, so take your time and measure correctly!  Installing ceramic tile is not difficult, but it is tricky and experience is helpful.  Cutting ceramic tile can often be difficult and time consuming.  For prior ceramic tile projects, I’ve used tile snips, a tile cutter, and a wet saw.  A wet saw is the best for cutting ceramic tile, but it’s not easy – I’ve made alot of mistakes.  In my estimation, ceramic tile would take about double the time for installation compared to installing groutable vinyl tile.

Grout Right Away – Immediately after you install the groutable vinyl tiles, you can start the grouting process.  This makes the entire process possible to complete in one day.  With ceramic tile, after you finish laying it, you have to let the adhesive dry for 24 hours before grouting, which results in a 2+ day project, so essential ceramic tile takes double the time.

Availability and Selection – I purchased this groutable vinyl tile at Lowe’s, but other home improvement stores also offer similar products.  The selection is not as vast as ceramic tile (which is a con), but I was surprised by the wide range of colors and textures.

One important part to mention is that the surface must be level underneath.  If there is any flexibility in the subfloor, ie: gaps between the tiles and the subfloor, then the grout could crack and pull away from the tiles – this could happen with ceramic tile and LVT.  Overall though, it’s a great product with an amazing result.  As being a huge part of our home, this new floor sure brings a smile to my face!

Onto the giveaway, which is HUGE!

Now’s your chance to try this project in your home or something completely new and different.  Lowe’s is generously giving one winner a $100 Gift Card to their store – how cool?!

This is the first giveaway that I’m using rafflecopter, so please email me if you’re having trouble – jburger.design@gmail.com (fingers crossed it works!).

Good Luck!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project.  I was also compensated for my time to use the products.  No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write.  All opinions are 100% mine!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, The Shabby Nest, Serenity Now, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

DIY: 3 in 1 Kids Play Tent – A Lowe’s Creative Idea

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 28 Comments on DIY: 3 in 1 Kids Play Tent – A Lowe’s Creative Idea

I hope you’re having a great week and I want to thank all of you who left such kind comments about my daughter’s room makeover. I already shared one DIY creation in the room (the washi tape initial) and I’m back today to share another part of the space for my first challenge as a Lowe’s Creative Team Member (learn more about that here).

One of my favorite parts of the room was creating a play tent. My kids, as most kids do, love creating forts and tents with blankets and pillows. They love the idea of a hidden place to play, read books, and tell stories. When embarking on this makeover, I thought a play tent would be the perfect addition for a small space in the corner of her room.  I didn’t want to make the tent dominate the space, but I also didn’t want it to be too small because what fun is that?!

My solution for the dilemma… A 3-in-1 tent with long panels to allow room for 1 child or 5.

Kids love options – am I right?!  You never know if they want to play by themselves in a little cocoon or if they want all their friends around to have a tea party, play barbies, or battle like droids (parents of Star War fans know what I’m talking about).

When starting this project, I of course, headed to Lowe’s to gather my supplies.

  • 1 x 6 board
  • flexible wood board (I ended up using a 4″ wide x 8′ long) wood toe kick thanks to the suggestion by a Lowe’s sales person)
  • nails, screws, and anchors
  • fabric of your choice
  • ribbon of your choice
  • drapery panels

To start off, I headed to my favorite home improvement store, Lowe’s, to gather my supplies.

1. Once home, I cut the 1″ x 6″ board into a 38″ piece and a 26″ piece (Lowe’s will also cut your wood pieces to size).  The nailed the two ends together.

2. Using anchors and screws ( I always use the self-screwing kind), I attached to the two pieces of wood to the corner space.  Then for the curve, I cut the 4″ wide x 8′ long toe kick in half.  Using finishing nails, I attached the flexible curved wood to the end of each 1″ x 6″ to finish the canopy base.

The curved wood was a little flimsy (obviously so it can bend), so I secured it in the back by hot gluing on paint sticks.

Once the base was done, the fun part started… adding the fabric.

In knowing that I was going to use white long panels, I wanted to add a bit of whimsy and fun to the valance, so I used a fun Duralee Ikea fabric along with drop cloth and a white pom-pom trim.

3. I cut a piece of drop cloth that was slightly larger that the valance, then wrapped it around the front of the valance and secured it in the back with hot glue.  The curved front sits about 1/2″ from the ceiling so I was able to wrap the fabric at the top as well.

Time to jazz it up!

4. After the drop cloth was in place, I added the colorful Ikat fabric.  I determined that I wanted to have a 3″ band of the fabric and marked it along the valance.  Then once again, I hot glued on the fabric.  Easy-Peasy!

secured the fabric in the front…

secured the fabric on the back…

5. Then I added the cute white pom-pom trim. Of course with hot glue… again.

For the last part of this 3-in-1 Kids Play Tent, are the panels.

Ok, so let’s take a step back and let me explain how and why I created these panels. Because of the dynamic fuschia in the room, I thought white panels would be a quieter, fresh contrast.  I also wanted them to feel light and airy, so decided on a sheer panel with a small pattern (sheers from Target).  The overall length was only 84″ and needed to be much longer, so I added a solid white cotton fabric (used from Ikea window panels) to the bottom.  They look pretty for the tent, but could also be used as drapery panels at a later date – I love creating things that can be used now AND later.

6. With right sides together, I sewed the two short ends of the panels.  I wasn’t worried about the length because the longer the better – this is how the large canopy is created.

7. Once the two panels were created, I attached them with staples to the ceiling on the inside of the valance.  I also overlapped the two panels creating a natural opening / closure.

8. Lastly, I added metal tie backs that I purchased at Lowe’s.  These tiebacks are perfect to pull back the panels and have the space wide open – like a stage for the kids to put on a play.

 

And it’s done. An exciting 3-in-1 Kids Play Tent.

1 – Panels completely pulled back

2 – A cozy hidden nook with panels drawn

3 – Panels pulled out creating a larger “tent”

What a fun spot! Within minutes of having this space done, my kids had all their stuffed animals, blankets, and pillows tucked away inside.

Well my little girl is calling me to go back into her tent – I gotta go!

To see more on this space, click over to see the Big Girl Bedroom {Reveal}

You can find more DIY creations in the Lowe’s Creative Magazine or the Lowe’s Ipad App for FREE!

Disclosure: I am part of the Lowe’s Creative Team and was provided with a Lowe’s gift card to purchase items for my project.  I was also compensated for my time to use the products.  No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write.  All opinions are 100% mine!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, The Shabby Nest, Serenity Now, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

Colorful Washi Tape Initial

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 30 Comments on Colorful Washi Tape Initial

This is the first DIY project that I’m sharing having to do with my daughter’s room makeover.

The makeover has been takin’ a wee-bit longer than anticipated, not because of design challenges (thankfully) but because of her actually using the room (to sleep, to play, etc.), lol.  I tackle many of my projects while the kids are fast asleep and dreaming, so to actually work in her room has been challenging.

Thankfully I had some time this past weekend to get my hands dirty and this is a project that I just finished up and couldn’t wait to share… Washi Tape Initial Wall Decor.

Have you heard of washi tape (don’t be embarrassed to say no)? Until recently, I didn’t. I had seen this crafty goodness all over the web but didn’t actually know what it was or how to use it.  So what did I have to do? Buy it, of course!

Here’s the DL on washi tape  It’s basically pretty patterned tape.  Imagine typical tape with a pattern.  So it’s easy to add to anything to dress it up a bit -paper, a present, anything…

I recently was asked to check out the new online craft  store, Consumer Crafts.  While searching the site I found a huge selection of washi tape, plus this awesome large initial letter that I had been searching for, for a while.  Since not using washi tape before, I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into it, but in the end, I….  well you’ll just have to keep reading to see what I thought.

Once my package arrived (within a day or two – it was amazing how fast my supplies came), I laid everything out – Large initial letter, washi tape, and mod podge (I was initially thinking of using duct tape, but opted not to) – and got to work.

The most difficult part of using the Consumer Crafts website was stopping myself from filling my basket with $100s of dollars of stuff – they really have everything pertaining to crafting!  Once I narrowed down my list, and got started on my project, I was good as gold.  The colors in my daughters room are vibrant and strong, so the colors of the washi tapes were perfect.

I began at the edge of the “A” with a fun pink and white striped tape,  wrapping it around at the top and bottom.

I continued with different washi tape styles and added them edge to edge on the diagonal parts of the “A”, and then continued taping the inner and outer edges.

Lastly, I tackled the connector of the “A”.  Washi tape is fairly thin, so it’s easy to cut.  I lightly laid out the tape, then using an X-acto blade, trimmed the edge.

Within about 10-15 minutes, the washi tape was done. YAY!  To seal it all, I added 2 coats of Mod Podge in Matte – another goodie I ordered from Consumer Crafts.

A few hours later it was dry and DONE!

So my thoughts on washi tape is that it’s GREAT!  It’s just like tape with added color and cuteness. I might never use ordinary tape again.

Such a fun and easy project.

Here’s the result…

My daughter’s New Big Girl Bedroom

Big Girl Bedroom

Have you ever used washi tape before?  If so, what have you created with this crafty goodness?

Disclaimer: I was given a gift card to order product and test-out the online craft store, Consumer Crafts.  I was also compensated for my time to use the products.  No one told me what to create, what to buy, how to use the product, or what to write.  All opinions are 100% mine!

Ombre Halloween Pillow with RIT Dye

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 27 Comments on Ombre Halloween Pillow with RIT Dye

Halloween is just a few short weeks away and even though I’ve already decorated for Fall, I wanted to spice it up with some Halloween accents.  My favorite, inexpensive way to do that is with pillows.

I recently was lucky enough to get my hands on RIT Dye and thought an ombre design with a few spooky elements would fit the bill just perfectly.

Let me start by saying I have NEVER used liquid dye before and was a little apprehensive, but honestly it was really easy and fun to add a bit of color to a plain ole’ piece of fabric.

Here are all the colors I received for the project and since it was a Halloween pillow that I set out to create, I chose orange and black to work with.

I started off by making a simple white envelope pillow using a heavy cotton, which were scraps from another project.  If you want to save time when making something similar, you can also buy a plain white pillow, but make sure the insert can be removed so the cover can be dyed. (Need a tutorial for an envelope pillow?  Click here)

Once the pillow was complete, it was DYE TIME!

How you use the dye really depends on your fabric, plus how intense you want the color. For my project, I used a half bottle of dye + 2 gallons of warm tap water.  I first put the dye into an old bucket, then added the water + …

… 1 cup of salt.

The magical formula was now ready!

Because there are so many uses for this liquid dye, there are many different techniques and ways to dye materials, so my advice is to do a test for whatever you plan on creating before venturing into the actual project.  Never using dye before and wanting to create an ombre look (multiple, graduating depths of color) I had no idea if I was supposed to leave it in the dye for 5 seconds, 5 minutes, or 5 hours. So here’s my tester, and hopefully it’ll give you a guide when using the RIT products.

This swatch test really helped me to know how much I needed to dip the fabric for my real project.  Again, this was my fabric, and I’m sure if you try this out, your fabric type and weight will be different, so do a test before starting your actual project.

Here’s how the dipping process went.

It was fairly easy and while the darkest area of the pillow was soaking up the dye, I worked on a few other projects (like my Travel Subway Sign).  Once I was happy with the color, it was time to add the black. I didn’t really want an ombre look for the black and instead wanted it as intense and dark as possible, so I left this section of the pillow in the black dye for about 30 minutes.


When it was done, I hung it on my beautiful drying rack.  NOT!  The lawnmower handle was just the right size and only feet away from the dying area.  Be sure to put a rag underneath because it will stain (the mister was wondering what all the drips were on the garage floor when he came home that evening, hehe).

Once the pillow was good and dry (I waited till the next day about 24 hours later), I ironed it before starting the next step… Stenciling!

Using some fun, festive stencils that I got last year, I started adding them randomly on the orange ombre section of the pillow.  Using the bat and spider design, I dabbed black fabric paint onto the stencil.  Then on some of them I even added a little sparkly glitter.

These stencils have a sticky back so they stay nicely in place while painting. Then you can easily peel them off…

…and voila, it’s complete!

Have you ever used RIT liquid dye?  If so, what projects have you created?  I’ll admit, I was alittle weary to try it out, but I am thrilled that I did because it was really easy to use and I’m gushing over the result.  I’ve got alot more dying projects on my to-do list now!

Disclaimer: I was sent complimentary product from RIT dye and was compensated for my time to use the product, but no one told me what to create, how to use it, or what to write.  All opinions are 100% mine!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, The Shabby Nest, Serenity Now, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

DIY: Travel Subway Art Sign

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 25 Comments on DIY: Travel Subway Art Sign

I hope you had a great weekend and are enjoying the first officially days of Fall – the leaves are starting to change here, how about in your neck of the woods?

Like usual, I’ve been knee deep in creating new DIY projects and one in particular that I just finished up has been on my to-do list for a long time.  It took me a while to figure out how to make it, but thankfully I’m thrilled with the result, and the main reason is because it cost less than $10 to make – {complete score}!

I’ve gotta give credit for the technique on how to create this Subway Art to Cheri of I Am Momma – Hear Me Roar and Monica & Jess of East Coast Creative.  Both gals created completely different projects, yet both used the same idea of creating an image and having it printed as a blueprint (a thin black & white 24″ x 36″ paper) at Staples for less than $4 – Crazy awesome right?!

Here’s how I did it so you can create a similar travel sign or something completely different using the same cheap blueprint technique…

Using Picasa (my favorite free photo editing program), I started off with a clean white collage using the highest resolution possible and then cropped it to a 24″ x 36″ size so the text would print as clear as possible (at a large scale).   A while ago, I had wrote a list of vacation spots that the mister and I have traveled to together over the years and started adding them to the collage in a variety of different fonts.  (want to see a few of the fonts I used?  Check out my favorites!).

Once I created this collage using my computer, I pulled together the rest of my supplies:

  • (1) 24″ x 36″ Blueprint from Staples for – $3.60
  • (1) 24″ x 36″ 1/4″ piece of plywood – $4.00
  • Spray Glue – $2.50 +/-  (50% off with AC Moore coupon)
  • Mod Podge & Brush
  • Black craft paint & brush
  • 2 pieces of scrap wood or pallet boards

After my stop at Staples to get my inexpensive print, I then headed to Lowe’s to get a piece of plywood.  I found a 3′ x 3′ piece and then had them cut it down to my exact size of 2′ x 3′. Important note: The blueprint might not be exactly to size, so you may want to measure that first before cutting the plywood.  I didn’t, but the plywood was only about 1/16″ larger and I sanded the edge with my orbital hand sander, so it fit to size.

To adhere the blueprint to the plywood, I decided on the Aleene’s Tacky Spray which I purchased at AC Moore.  I was thrilled with their products that I tried out last year, and thankfully this spray glue worked like a charm!

To stick the blueprint to the plywood, I started at the top edge and sprayed a thin, even coat of glue, just like spray paint, from one side to the other side. Then lined up the corner of the blueprint to the corner of the plywood.

Once the top edge of the print was on, I continued to add the glue in small sections – again spraying from one side to the other.

Once the blueprint was fully on the plywood, I added a coat of Mod Podge to protect the paper surface.  I applied the MP from side to side just like the spray glue.

I didn’t forget the sides – it’s a must so the paper doesn’t rip or curl.

Almost done, but I have to admit there were some wrinkly spots once the Mod Podge dried…

Oops, I thought I adhered the blueprint so well.  No worries, I then got out my handy-dandy orbital sander and sanded the edges and top surface of the print.  I also added in a few “wear marks” to give the sign a distressed look.

Almost finished… to complete the look and to hide the plywood side, I used a black craft paint and painted the 4 edges of the sign.

The sign is complete…

…but wait, we’ve gotta mount & hang it!  To give the sign some depth and importance (plus it was slightly bowed because the plywood is thin), I added two vertical pallet pieces to the back.  Using short nails with a small head, I hammered them through the sign into the pallets. Then added picture hooks and wire.

Then it was really done!

So fun, So easy, and less than $10 – you can’t beat awesome, personalized wall decor like that!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, The Shabby Nest, Serenity Now, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

From Wood to White: How-To Paint Mouldings

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 39 Comments on From Wood to White: How-To Paint Mouldings

If I could sum up my Summer in DIY terms, it was all about painting. From the staircase to my office chair, from the white shelves to the new blue room, I think there was 2 (or maybe even 3) weeks straight that I had a paintbrush in-hand everyday!  Honestly, I’m kind of sick done with painting for awhile. Anyway, alot of projects got accomplished and one in particular were the oak stained wood mouldings that I painted white.  All I can say is…  WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

The staircase project was what did it and started the process of updating the mouldings.  It’s something that I wanted to undertake for a long time, but just didn’t know where to begin.  Once I started painting the stair risers and balusters, I realized that painting the trimwork wasn’t too difficult, so I just continued around the room. Even though the staircase was time consuming, the result was completely worth the effort and I knew I would feel the same way once the mouldings were finished.

To start off, I applied painters tape to the wall so only the mouldings (the areas that I wanted to paint) were exposed.

Here’s a snapshot when I painted the area around the window in the living room.

* Sidenote: My walls were already painted, but if you’re undertaking this project and your walls are NOT painted or you plan on changing the wall color, then paint the mouldings first.  Believe Me, It’s much easier!  So you would reverse the step I just mentioned.  Paint your mouldings first and once they are dry, tape the moulding edge (or buy a moulding paint gadget), THEN paint the wall color.

okay, moving on…

Once the tape was up, I was ready to paint.  Using my favorite Purdy brush, I applied one coat of Kilz Primer (I’ve heard good things about gripper primer too, but haven’t tried it yet).  I didn’t bother with sanding because even though the mouldings were stained, there was no gloss or sheen to them.  They were at the point of needing to be restained (to protect them) or painted (as I did).  IF you’re undertaking this project and your mouldings have a gloss finish, giving them a light sand is probably a good idea.

Primer for the mouldings is really important.  At one window I didn’t use it (by accident – it was late at night – you know the rest…) and you could see the orange color of the stain coming through the paint.  No matter how many coats of paint I applied, the orange tint always showed.  Now with primer, you may still get the orangey color, BUT when you go to apply the paint color, the orange color won’t come through because the primer will block it.  Primer truly is amazing stuff!

After the one coat of primer, then it was time to paint.   I continued with the paint I used for the staircase which was, Snowfall White by Benjamin Moore (thanks BM for providing the paint!).

Here’s a snapshot of the first coat of paint.

In most areas, I applied 1 coat of primer + 2 coats of paint, but in some areas I did use 3 coats.  It really depended on the finish look after 2 coats.

Once the painting was complete, it was time to remove the tape.  I’ll forewarn you – Don’t quickly pull off the tape because you’re freshly painted mouldings might get ruined.  When the paint was dry (to the touch – it takes about 20-30 days to fully cure), I pulled off the tape and some of the paint came to.  To avoid that from happening, I used an X-acto blade to score the corner of where the moulding and wall meet…

…then removed the tape.

At this point, I noticed that some of the paint bled under the painters tape – so annoying, right?  I’ll tell ya, I tried lots of different ways to avoid this, but nothing worked.  I even googled it, and I found nada.  If you know a secret way, will you share?  Until then, this is what I did that worked best.

After removing the tape, I took the wall paint color and my Purdy angled brush, and slowly dragged it down the wall where the wall and moulding meet.  It worked perfectly!

And that’s about it…  Not too difficult, just alittle time consuming.  But believe me, the result is SO worth it.  Take it room by room – that’s what I’ve done.  Honestly, not all my rooms are completely finished, but most are and the result is so satisfying!

Here is the before and after of the living room…

Want to see some more?

Do you remember when I updated the door hardware? Check out how fresh it looks with the newly painted white mouldings…

And here’s one more.  Do you remember the DIY built-in coat rack behind my front door?  Well here it is now surrounded by freshly painted mouldings…

What a refreshing update!  Well I have a few more painting projects that I worked on over the Summer that still need to be shared, so check back soon!

What painting projects did you work on this past Summer?

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Serenity Now, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie

How-To Paint Laminate Furniture

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Furniture, Paint, Paint Techniques, Paint Tools. 173 Comments on How-To Paint Laminate Furniture

I recently shared my newly styled bookshelves, but before I added all the colorful books and stylish accessories, I gave the bookcases a much needed makeover.

Since painting the space deep blue, the once faux-wood bookcases got lost in the dark hue of the walls, and they were ready for a transformation. A crisp, fresh coat of white was the perfect solution to make a statement.

I purchased these two bookcases from Walmart about 2 years ago.  Each were around $100 and were not the best of quality (duh, look at the pricetag).  Anyway, they fit the bill at the moment, but recently the shelves started to bow.  Aside from the decision to paint the bookcases, I also needed to make a few updates so they would last a few more years – I’ll get to more on that later in the post.

Before starting the process of painting the laminate, I did a little research on the process and the first article I saw was Lindsay’s post when she transformed her TV cabinet.  It was just what I needed to get me started.

Here’s the bookcase before…

To begin, I gave each bookcase a good sanding with my orbital sander (hands down, my favorite power tool). These bookcases are made of a particle board-like  composite with a faux-wood laminate exterior. It was important NOT to sand too much because otherwise the surface would get ruined (since it’s essentially paper), but at the same time it was important to get them ‘roughed-up’ so the paint would absorb into the surface.

Then the next key step was to prime all the surfaces.  Like usual, I used Kilz Primer which blocks, seals, and preps the surface for the paint to adhere to the surface.  Primer is important, but especially when painting over laminate (as I described above).  Unlike wood, laminate is a smooth, non-porous material, so it really needs something to ‘grab’ on to – primer will do the trick!  It’s suggested that primer takes 7 days to completely dry – you can take that advice if you’d like, but I didn’t (shame, shame on me, I know).  BUT, I did wait about 4 days before painting to really make sure the surface was good-to-go!

My good blogging friend, Diane, recently wrote a post on Gripper Paint.  She uses the Glidden brand (Kilz brand has a similar product), and even though I haven’t tried it, this is another great product to use as a primer.  The name says it all.

Sidetrack Steps…

At this point of the project, I made the decision to make a few much-needed updates to the structure and look of the bookcase.  Instead of moving on to directly painting the bookcase, I decided to replace the shelves and the backing material.

As I mentioned before, the shelves were really bowing – alot – so I took a trip to my hardware store and had a long piece of 2×12 cut into lengths needed for new shelves.

And check out the back of the bookcase…  UGLY!  It was basically paper and when I started to paint the surface, it started warping even more.  Once the decision was made to upgrade the back, I crumbled the paper-backing with one hand…

To fix the backing, I had a thin piece of plywood cut to size.  Then the Mister and I flipped the bookcase onto it’s front and nailed the plywood to the perimeter of the bookcase back. (This step might seem difficult, but please be assured it wasn’t – this was probably one of the easiest steps throughout this project).

Now back on track…

After sanding, priming,and making a few updates, it was time to PAINT!

I used a brush for the corners and a roller for the flat surfaces.  In certain areas, I used a brush first, then went over the same surface with the roller to achieve a smooth, stroke-less surface. Here’s the bookcase with the first coat of paint…

Here’s a tip.  If the surface isn’t sanded or not sanded enough, then the paint will bubble (because it’s not adhering to the surface).  Check this out…

This is a No-No!

I’ll be honest, these bookcases took about 3-4 coats until I felt they were fully covered. And even after they were dry to the surface, I didn’t put anything on the shelves for at least a week.  Paint takes about 30 days to fully cure and with the heavy books and accessories sitting on them, the last thing I would want would be to have them ruined or peel!

And this is the result…

So refreshing!  Then it was time to add the books and accessories.

And here’s a peak at how the bookcases look fully styled with books and accessories.  You can check out more by viewing this post.

Painting laminate wasn’t difficult, but I did find it more time consuming than painting wood.  To sum it up, the most important steps are to sand and prime all the surfaces before painting.  If you were to skip the 2 steps, your paint would have nothing to adhere to and would most likely peel right off.  Going into this project, I wasn’t sure of the result and if the paint would even stay since the surface was so smooth, but with the right preparation, I was thrilled with the outcome.

My First Annie Sloan Experience

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 114 Comments on My First Annie Sloan Experience

Yes, using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is an experience!

If you have no idea what I’m talking about and/or have no idea who Annie Sloan is, no worries, just keep on reading.  If you do know about ASCP, stick around and see if you’ve had a similar experience (I’d love to hear your thoughts).

I shared the result of my first Annie Sloan paint project yesterday and the response was unbelievable.  Thank you ALL for your kind comments – I was blown away by your kindness!  If you missed the reveal, I revamped and reupholstered a side chair for my desk.  Before the reupholstery could begin though, I painted the chair frame with my newly purchased Annie Sloan Chalk Paint.  I had never used this paint before and it was quite an experience.  I shared a little about it yesterday, but wanted to go more in-depth with a dedicated post.  So here we go…

I’ll start off by saying, I had some issues and jumped a few hurdles, but got through it. (but keep reading please…)

Many of my blogger friends have used the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and the results are amazing. One that really sticks out in my mind is Erin’s table and it’s probably because of the vibrant orange color with the antique dark wax.  This piece turned out amazing and after reading her post and seeing her pictures, I was sold and had to place my order.

In the meantime, I also (virtually) met Trish of The Purple Painted Lady and saw this piece which blew me away. Trish and I corresponded back and forth a few times.  She gave me amazing tips and techniques on using the paint and wax, so I thought I was on my way.

I ordered a quart of the French Linen color, which seemed similar to the taupe hue that can be seen throughout my home, and a can of the clear wax.  My shipment arrived a few days later and an anxiety came over me.  After ALL the many DIY projects that I’ve taken on, I was actually nervous to paint.  Yes, paint.  How could I be nervous??  I think I hyped up the idea of this magical formula so much that my gung-ho attitude went out the door.  And for me, when I’m nervous, things go wrong.  Does that happen to you?

I started off as I was instructed to (by Trish) and turn the can upside down for at least 60 seconds.  Basically, all the good stuff settles to the bottom and needs to be well mixed around. Of course, shake and stir as well.

Then I started painting.  Yup, I started painting WITHOUT stripping, sanding, or priming the existing wood.  That’s the beauty of chalk paint.  It’s designed to adhere to most any surface including wood, concrete, vinyl, and even bathtubs (I learned that from Trish too).  Plus it provides 50% more coverage compared to latex, so the 1 quart can goes a LONG WAY – for this chair, I hardly used any paint.

So coat 1 went on just like usual. Using my favorite Purdy brush, I applied a light coat of this gorgeous color.

Then coat 2.

Two coats was just enough for most areas, but a few spots need three.

Done.  Trish stressed that it wasn’t good to paint in the heat, but I was just fine since I was indoors, in the A/C – ideal conditions!

I wasn’t sure what the result of the chalk paint would be.  I was guessing it would be chalky (obviously), but it’s not.  Honestly, if I didn’t know it was chalk paint, I would think the paint was simply a latex… Until it dries.  The finish on the dried chalk paint is very flat and dull.  You can tell it is in need of something for a top coat.  What is that something?  Well, wax.

Why Use Wax?

Chalk Paint™ is very porous and the wax will penetrate the paint and literally fuse with it making it very strong. Waxing the paint provides protection. Chalk Paint™ in nature- is a very flat chalky finish and over time could be effected by oils from your skin, stains from beverages, dirty fingertips. They can permanently stain the paint. The wax finish is what seals and protects your piece. – The Purple Painted Lady

A day later, I jumped in and started the wax process.  I’ve painted before, but have never applied wax.  Not even car wax, so I was definitely entering unchartered territories.  Again, I was nervous, but sucked it up and followed the steps (once again stated by Trish).

The wax is smooth, kind of like Crisco, and should be applied in “very thin, uniform coats”.

Remember this – VERY THIN, UNIFORM COATS

This is the basic process –

  1. Start by taking a spoonful of wax.
  2. Put it on a paper plate.
  3. Dip the end bristles of your brush* into the wax.
  4. Apply the wax in the same direction as the painted brush strokes

* The brush you choose is important.  It CAN’T be a new brush and really should be a specific wax brush.  I used a well-worn brush that was leftover from my fence project.  I really should have used a true wax brush, but being the frugal gal that I am, decided not to get it with my purchase (probably a mistake). As I always preach suggest, the right tools make the job much easier.  I guess I haven’t learned my own lesson yet…

FYI – These instructions are for applying clear wax only, not the dark wax.  That has a whole set of different directions that I haven’t even looked at yet.

Trish at The Purple Painted Lady has an AMAZING Q + A on her website and every issue / problem that you may run into is on there.  She gives a very thorough step-by-step of how to apply the wax, so it’s a MUST READ!

But of course, I ran into an issue.  Here goes.  I applied the wax, waited a few hours, but it still was tacky.  I waited another 24 hours, but it was STILL tacky.  What did I do wrong?  I immediately sent an email to Trish and this was the subject line: Need HELP with wax! (that should get her attention, right?)

Like always, I heard back from her right away with a thorough explanation and she directed me right to her Q+A page.  I scrolled down and found my answer.

Thankfully “my issue” is one of the most common… too much wax!  I went over the wax with a cloth and a few days later, it was all dry and smooth to the touch.

Boy, what an experience, but I’m glad I stuck with it and learned from my mistakes. Trying something new always has it’s hurdles, but once you get over them, it’s often smooth sailing.  I’m thrilled with the result of my newly reupholstered chair and every time I look at it, I have a chuckle about the days when I wanted to pull my hair out figuring out what I did wrong.

And here’s the finished result.

I’ve received quite a few questions on, “Is the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint worth the cost?”.  It’s difficult to say depending on the look and style piece you want to achieve. With the bonus of no stripping, sanding, or priming, plus how much this paint covers compared to latex paint, it’s worth to give it a try!  You may just fall in love…

Since I’m still a novice ASCP user,  I’d LOVE to hear about your experiences with this magical formula. What issues have you had if any and how have you overcome them?  Do you love the paint or don’t think it’s worth the cost?  Please Share!

If you want to check out my reupholstery tutorial, click here.  And if you’re interested in learning alot more about how to apply the chalk paint and wax, click here to visit Trish’s website.

Kitchen Makeover Update: One Year Later

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY, Kitchen. 26 Comments on Kitchen Makeover Update: One Year Later

One of the biggest projects to date that I tackled was my kitchen makeover.  I can’t believe it’s been a year, but this time last Summer, I was finishing up the final details and sharing it with you.

Since that time, I’ve been flooded with questions (and many kind comments – thank you), and thought a One-Year-Followup post including answers + an update a year later would be interesting and helpful for those thinking of tackling something similar.

There were alot of details and updates that went into the entire Kitchen Makeover, resulting in quite a few posts to explain all the steps.
Here they are:

Since this is a followup post, let’s start with some of the reader questions that I received related to…

painting the cabinets

From Shani:
it is beautifully done! i painted my cabinets in my previous house, and found that if i hit the cabinets hard (with a pot handle etc) that the paint chipped..do you find that to be the case? great job!

From Kyra:
Did you use primer on all of the cabinets ? I would think you would want to use primer everywhere? DId you sand the cabinets first? You don’t mention it but I would think you’d want to.

From Julie:
Looks great!!! Did you not use a primer on these..or did you tint the primer? Also did you sand these first?How is the paint holding up?

I absolutely used Primer and wouldn’t do any project like this, without! Primer is key to a great finish and a long-lasting result.  To start off, I gave the cabinets a light sanding, then applied one coat of Kilz Primer. When using the Kilz Primer, sanding isn’t really needed, but I did it anyway to remove the sheen from the cabinet face.  Plus the Kilz Primer is great for blocking the wood grain and stain from showing through.

Once dry about 24 hours later (the paint can says wait 7 days for it to fully cure, but I didn’t), I applied 2 coats (in some areas 3 coats) of Benjamin Moore Aura Paint. Their Aura paint is a primer + paint in one, but I still felt that it was important to use the Kilz primer first.

 

From Stachia:
What color and brand of paint did you use for your kitchen cabinets?

The paint color that I used for the cabinets was Benjamin Moore Berkshire Beige in a semi-gloss finish using their Aura Paint line (primer and paint in one).  A semi-gloss finish is important to use on cabinetry and/or furniture so the surface can easily be cleaned and/or wiped off.

updating the countertops

From Amy:
Just one question, does the countertop have bumps, or does it just appear that way in the photo?

My Response:
With the Rust-Oleum kit, the countertop is slightly bumpy to imitate the look of a natural stone surface. It’s not overly bumpy, but also not completely smooth.

From sl:
I would love to do this to my kitchen countertop. Yours look GREAT!!! I am still trying to convince my hubby. Did you put the color chip on the backsplash and edges? Is so was it hard to get them in these spots? Is not, does it look odd without color chips? Thanks for any info you can share.

My Response:
Yes, I did put the chips on the countertop edge and backsplash. With the tool that is provided, it sprays the chips all over and will cover the vertical surfaces. If there are spots that don’t get covered, you can throw chips on them, which will adhere because the adhesive is very sticky. All surfaces of the counter, absolutely needed to be covered with the chips or you won’t achieve the quality needed to hold up.

From Marti:
Could you please elaborate on your comment that the chips must cover all areas or the quality needed to hold up won’t be achieved. Do you mean that the chips facilitate the hardening process, and without them, full hardening won’t occur? Also, did you notice any odor at any stage in the process? I have an allergy to paint. Many thanks.

My Response:
When you are at the point of adding the “chips”, you want cover the entire countertop surface – the more, the better. After the chips are added, the next day you put on the sealer (top protective coat). If the countertop is not covered enough with the chips, your old countertop color will show through. The chips DO NOT facilitate the hardening process, but the chips are essentially the color that changes the countertop. So the first coat is the glue, second is the chips a.k.a. “color”, and the last coat is the protective seal. There was very little odor throughout the process. I was very worried about this with having two young kids, but it really wasn’t an issue. Honestly, we ended up going out for meals during the process since the kitchen was OFF LIMITS!

From Kristin:
Hi there! You mentioned the peeling of the top coat when the tape isn’t properly removed. We just did these countertops this weekend and had one spot where it did that. What did you use to fix the area??? On another note I would totally agree that the difficulty level is at a 2. It was SO easy and the instructions were great. The scoring of the tape, though, really is vital.

My Response:
If part of the countertop peels after you’ve applied the “chips” and sealer,  the instructions say to go through the entire process again for that specific spot.

Overall the process of the Rustoleum Transformations Kit was not difficult and the instructions were very thorough.  Included is a comprehensive video that is a must to watch! We took the weekend to work on the project, but it didn’t take all day.  Also, thankfully there wasn’t ANY ODOR – big checkmark 😉

I received quite a few questions and comments about the Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations Kit.  I have not had the pleasure of using the product, so I really can’t comment, BUT some readers that used the white or lighter colors had a bad experience with it yellowing.  Has this happened to you?

tiling over laminate

I guess my tutorial on this part of the makeover was easy to follow (or no one liked it – hehe) because I didn’t receive one single question.  Anyway, with tiling over the 3″ high laminate backsplash, the kitchen really has a custom and unique look.  Often seen in typical kitchens, is a 3″ high backsplash to match the countertop which is sealed at the joint so no water or liquid will leak behind the base cabinets.  Great concept, but very ordinary and not really interesting.  Because we were “painting” over our existing countertops, there was no way to remove the laminate backsplash, so I just tiled right over it!  It was easy and there was nothing different or special than tiling any other surface.

adding decorative brackets

By introducing the decorative brackets, the kitchen has a sophisticated aesthetic with interesting architectural details.  Before, there was one long row of cabinets, but now the brackets add an unexpected element.

Update One Year Later

Now that I’ve highlighted a few of the popular questions from the makeover, it’s time for me to share some images and updates a year later.

Thankfully the cabinets have REALLY held up well over the past year.  We’re a family of four, with two young kids, so the kitchen is used ALOT!  It has received so much wear and tear, but you wouldn’t know it by looking at the cabinets.

Unfortunately, I wish I could say that about the countertop.  Within the first few weeks of using the Transformations Kit, the newly “painted” surface started to scratch, show spots and wear.  That being said, I am still happy with the overall look and how much the kitchen changed by using the Rustoleum product.  I’m often asked, “Is the product worth it?  Is it more of a temporary fix?”… well that’s difficult to answer.  It comes down to your budget and how long you plan on living with the kitchen.  The product is around $250-$300 (the last time I saw it at HD or Lowes), which is pricey, but at the same time we didn’t want to invest in a more expensive countertop.  Honestly, looking back knowing the imperfections today, I’m still glad we chose this product.  A bigger, more $$$ kitchen makeover might be ahead of us in 3-5+ years and until then, the updates we made are just fine (and actually more than fine). So my roundabout answer is, if you have the money and plan on keeping the countertops for 5-10+ years, go with another surface, but if you’re on a budget and/or want a quick and on-budget solution, the Rustoleum Transformations Kit is a great idea.

Here are some images of the kitchen that I just took yesterday.

I’d like to stress that even though I’m an in-real-life designer, my home is not staged and looks like most everyone elses.  The kitchen is often the most messiest place in our home and before cleaning it up to shoot some pics, this is what it looked like…

You can see the multiple DIY projects that I’m in the midst of.

Does your kitchen look like this ever?

Thankfully a few minutes later I got it all cleaned up and this is what it looks like a year after the makeover…

These are some of the scratches and wear marks on the countertop.

And this is a stain (completely my fault) where I dropped super glue.

And like I said, the cabinets have held up GREAT, but there are touch-ups that will be needed here and there.  For instance, the shelves on the open cabinet get alot of wear multiple times a day when I take out and put back the baskets.

But there really is no reason to complain, because this Benjamin Moore paint was easy to apply and has held up SO well.

These pictures were just taken yesterday and I haven’t made any paint touch ups since the day they were painted a year ago.

And this quote – a favorite of mine -sits on the window sill by the kitchen sink and keeps me in check many moments throughout the day.

So that’s the makeover update one year later.

Are there questions that you have that I haven’t answered?  If so, Ask Me, and I’ll add them to the post.

Two Toned Mirror with Faux Silver Leaf Detail

Written by Jenna on . Posted in DIY. 2 Comments on Two Toned Mirror with Faux Silver Leaf Detail

Another summer week is underway.  I can’t believe how fast it’s flying by, but I’m excited to be sharing a new DIY project with you – let’s get started…

Sometimes a small added detail truly makes a piece look completely new again.  While updating the buffet in my dining room with the new lamps and sunburst mirror, I moved the dark wood mirror that was once over the mantel to this revamped area.  I’ve had the mirror for about 9 years and it was beautiful, but I felt like it needed a little pick-me-up and decided adding a little something around the inner rim would be the perfect update.

The mirror has been seen in many of my mantel makeovers, like this one decorated for Spring 2012. Since it was in fine condition, I was weary about messing-it-up, but I took the leap of faith anyway. Silver leaf detail was the first thought that came to mind.

The addition of silver leaf, like in the dresser below by Jenny of Little Green Notebook, adds a beautiful and sophisticated accent, but since I was hesitant about how much detail would be appropriate for this mirror, I decided to use another method to get the silver leaf look, but make it totally faux.

Beautiful and I’d love to give silver leafing a try one day, but for my mirror, the faux way was alot easier and less time consuming.

Faux Silver Leaf

To achieve the silver leaf look, I used Krylon Spray Paint in Caramel Latte, which is the same color used for my lamp revamp – yes the lamps that now site right next to the mirror. LOVE this color. The cap shows it has more of a gold hue than silver, but the result on the mirror edge and the lamps is a more silver / gold combo.

Instead of the traditional way of using spray paint – is there a traditional way? – I, sprayed a small amount into the cap (in a ventilated space, of course)…

…then using a small paint sponge, I dipped the edge into the paint.

Then I lightly dabbed the sponge onto the leaf detail of the mirror edge.  I went slowly at first not sure of how much would be appropriate.

Well, hello there camera lense staring at me 😉

After I knew the look I liked, then I continued around the entire mirror, and this is the result…

The edge detail around the mirror can be seen more now with the newly added faux silver leaf touch, and the mirror is updated enough to look like new. Within 5 minutes this mirror got a complete makeover and it was really easy!  Hanging the mirror wasn’t difficult either with a method I’ve been using for years AND I’m going to spill the beans tomorrow – don’t miss it.

Have you ever used spray paint in a different or unconventional way?  Have you ever updated a piece of furniture with silver leaf?  It’s surely something I’d love to try!

I link my projects to some of these parties: Skip to My Lou, Dittle Dattle, Between Naps on the Porch, Today’s Creative Blog, Stories of A to Z, All Things Heart & Home, Savvy Southern Style, House of Hepworths, Finding Fabulous, Creation Corner, The Shabby Nest, Tatertots and Jello, Thrifty Decor Chick, Tip Junkie