Tag: DIY

DIY: Faux Roman Shade

Written by Jenna on June 15, 2011. Posted in DIY. 14 Comments on DIY: Faux Roman Shade

You might think I’ve gone drop cloth crazy (which I have), but this material is truly simple, affordable, and stylish! Plus it’s also durable, chic, and a great neutral palette for any accent color. Lately I’ve been transforming my interiors to look a little more casual. With updated fabrics on the pillows and windows, and some stylish new accessories and repurposed pieces, my interior is changing into my desired style (of the moment…next week it could change again)..haha). My latest drop cloth project was to make faux roman shades for my dining room windows.

Before, the window treatments were dupioni silk drapery panels with detailed sheers to match. I was over the heaviness-look and wanted something to lighten and brighten the space.

I was on a mission to repurpose, so I took the window panels that were in my living room and moved them into the dining room. But it still wasnâ€™t â€œjustâ€ right ~ It needed something. With a little experimentation of fabrics, I thought the drop cloth material would be a perfect neutral accent to the simple burnt orange/red drapes (the roman shades also coordinate quite nice with my table runner).

Supplies needed to create your own faux roman shade

Fabric of choice
Double Fold Bias Tape
Sewing Machine
Sewing supplies (pins, scissors, measuring tape, etc)
Velcro

Before I begin the tutorial, I wanted to mention there was an existing honeycomb-style shade where I wanted to install this new faux roman. I removed the fabric shade using a straight edge, but left the bar on in place. This is what I later used to attach the faux roman shade with the Velcro. **If you are starting from scratch, you could put the Velcro directly on the window OR get a tension rod and Velcro the shade to it.

Let’s jump right in

1. Decide how many â€˜dropsâ€™ you want for your roman shade. I decided on 2 drops, and then I added a Header Flap on the top. Each drop is 5-1/2â€ and the top flap is 3-1/2â€.

2. Measure the width of your window and cut your material. With regards to the length, I cut mine to be about 36â€ long. Itâ€™s important to leave a lot of extra material on the length, so you have enough to create the drops. (Read on and itâ€™ll help you determine your length).

3. Take your Double Fold Bias Tape and edge the length of the roman shade.

4 and 5. Pin and Sew the bias tape onto your fabric. If your top edge is not finished, fold over and sew, so you have a finished edge.

6. Fold over your fabric to create a 3-1/2â€ Header Flap; Iron the edge and sew along the top with a ½â€ inseam.

7. Itâ€™s time to start your first drop: Measure 9â€ from the top (3-1/2â€ for the Header Flap + 5-1/2â€ for the drop) and then fold the fabric under to create the drop of the roman shade. Bring the fabric all the way to the top of the back.

8a and 8b. Flip over the Header Flap. Pin the drop and sew the fabric underneath the flap (along the pinned line as shown in the picture).

9. Onto the second drop: Measure another 5-1/2â€ for the next drop (which is now 14.5 from the top). Repeat step 8.

You can make as many drops as youâ€™d like to create a longer roman shade. 2 drops worked perfectly for my size window.

10. When you are complete with your roman shade, flip it over and attach the Velcro to the top edge of the shade.

11. As I mentioned above, I used the existing bar that was already in place. If you are starting new, you can either attach the Velcro right to the window or use a tension rod and attach the Velcro to it.

And here it is …

Here is the overall space: Lighter and Brighter!

Adding a non-functioning roman shade can really jazz up a window. I’ll be honest, this tutorial was a bit difficult to write and I hope I didn’t lose you. It’s actually quite easy to make once you get started. If you have ANY questions, please reach out to me and ask!

* Just a reminder, don’t forget the BIG Blogger Block Party event ~ link up your Summer Space projects to my link party next Thursday, the 23rd! *

{Tutorial} Personalized Envelope Pillow

Written by Jenna on May 30, 2011. Posted in Decorating, DIY. 18 Comments on {Tutorial} Personalized Envelope Pillow

I hope you had a wonderful long weekend! Mine was filled with BBQs, relaxation, spending time with family, and remembering those who have fought and are fighting for our country! How did you spend this holiday weekend?

Now let me share with you, what I’ve been up to…..

Using my favorite new material – – drop cloth – – I created this stylish, yet simple envelope-style pillow, then stenciled the initial of our last name on the front. To be honest with you, Iâ€™m usually not a monogram-type person, but I have to say, I truly enjoy seeing this cute pillow showcasing our family initial.

Let’s jump right in, so you can make one for yourself!

Supplies

Pillow
* Drop Cloth or a similar heavy weight fabric
* Scissors or rotary cutter
* Measuring Tape
* Cutting Board
* Sewing Machine
* Pillow Insert
* Iron
* Other misc. sewing supplies

1. Gather all of your supplies together and decide the size pillow you want to create.

The pillow that I created was a kidney size ~ 12â€ x 20â€

2. For the front face, add 1â€ to the length and 1″ to the width – – so the pillow will be 13″ x 21″ (this extra inch will provide enough room to stuff your pillow). Then with a rotary cutter or scissors, cut out the front face of the pillow.

You will need 2 back pieces, and for EACH add 1â€ overall for the height, which will give you 13â€, and then add 3â€ to the width. This additional 3â€ will give the overlap for the pillow envelope.

Here’s a little math for ya…

Divide the overall length in half and add 3

21 divided by 2= 10.5 + 3 = 13.5

Front Face = 13â€ x 21â€

Back Pieces = (2) 13.5â€ (envelope edge) x 13″

3. Take one of the back pieces and fold over 1/4â€ on the envelope side (this will create the opening for the pillow insert) and IRON the edge.

4. Sew the folded edge.

Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the other back piece (envelope side).

5. Lay your front face down (right sides together), then lay the back pieces on top (the sewn envelope sides together and should overlap). Pin and sew all around the outer edge with a 1/2â€ seam.

6. Clip the corners.

7. Turn it to the right side and iron the edges flat to make a clean and crisp look.

8. Your envelope pillow has been created ~ add your pillow insert.

Complete…now you have a pretty little pillow

But wait…let’s personalize it!

Some of you lucky ladies out there have silhouette machines that can personalize just about everything. Well, I don’t have one and I know many of you are in the same boat, so this part of the tutorial is for those that want to personalize the old fashion way.

Supplies

Stenciling
Computer (or stencil)
Fabric paint
Paint brush

1. To create your initial letter, open a Word document and find a font and size you like – – I used the century font at a size of about 150.

2. Print and Cut out the letter with an X-acto blade.

3 /4. Lay it on your pillow and trace the letter using a black Sharpie or pencil. I used a sharpie because my paint color was black, but if youâ€™re using another color, use a pencil.

5. Paint within the stencil.

Fill in the rest with the fabric paint – – like this one!

Now I have to admit, this project didn’t start off perfect. Before stenciling on my finished pillow, I did a test run on a scrap. I originally had skipped the tracing-with-a-marker step and attempted painting right on the stencil. Nope…that did not work at all. The paint bled underneath the stencil resulting in ugly, ugly! Take a look at these pics ~But it’s done and…

Here’s the finished pillow

Along with this “B” personalized pillow, I also made the pretty pillows behind using the same steps. I wanted to freshen things up for the Spring, so I’ve been making lots of changes – – stayed tuned for more pictures!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful! Have you ever made an envelope-style pillow? What about stenciling ~ have you ever stenciled before?

DIY: Framed Chalkboard Medicine Cabinet

Written by Jenna on May 5, 2011. Posted in DIY, Paint.

When recently working on my kids bathroom makeover on a budget, I questioned what to do with the mirrored medicine cabinet ~

Leave it? Or take it out?

The mirrored front medicine cabinet is positioned on the side wall, and since there is already a mirror over the sink, there really wasn’t a need for it. BUT, I didn’t want to leave a huge hole in the wall AND I wasn’t interested in taking the time to patch it up either. What to do?? WELL, I decided to create a new framed chalkboard medicine cabinet!

This was actually quite an easy project to tackle, but before we start, here is how the bathroom looked before.

Supplies needed:
Chalkboard Paint
Wood Frame
Liquid Nails
Sandpaper

Start off by roughing up the existing mirror with sandpaper. This will help the paint absorb better since the mirror surface is not porous.

Then it was time to add the chalkboard paint. I’ve used the same can of chalkboard paint for many of my projects {take a look ~ here & here} and it’s still half full…it definitely goes a long way!

I used a small roller brush to apply the chalkboard paint…

…and used the Valspar tray that came with my free paint sample.

Once the painting is complete, the medicine cabinet is ready to be framed. The overall dimension of my medicine cabinet is 16″ x 22″, so I needed to find something to cover and overlap the mirror. After much searching, I found a wood frame that was made for a 14″ x 18″ picture with an overall outside dimension of 18″ x 23″….it worked perfectly to cover the existing mirror.

Using liquid nails, I applied a good amount to the back of the frame and adhered it to the newly painted “mirror”.

Once the frame is in place, it’s very important to use a level to make sure it’s plumb!

I’m sure you’re wondering why I have a box of Lincoln Logs and 15+ books on the countertop… I have a good explanation for that ~ Liquid Nails is great, but it doesn’t instantly dry…it takes about 30 minutes. When I first adhered the frame, it actually started to sliiiiide down, SO with a little improv (ie: Lincoln Logs & books), it stayed right in place.

TIP: Chalkboard paint isn’t a must for this project. In my master bath, I had another frameless medicine cabinet, that I simply added a similar wood frame to. The medicine cabinet was instantly updated within minutes for less than $20.

My new framed chalkboard medicine cabinet is COMPLETE! Now I have a stylish new medicine cabinet…

…to write my kids to-do’s for their morning/night routine

I’m so happy with how this turned out! I just LOVE chalkboard paint!! Have you ever used chalkboard paint on a project?

Giving Birth to a Quilt + Sewing Lingo & Basics

Written by Jenna on April 29, 2011. Posted in DIY. 10 Comments on Giving Birth to a Quilt + Sewing Lingo & Basics

My first quilt is officially done… AND it really felt like giving birth. Every step of the way, I wasn’t sure what I was doing and I was so afraid of making a mistake with possible repercussions down the line.

BUT….like giving birth, my quilt is a beautiful outcome!

I’m being a lil’ sarcastic…it’s not REALLY like giving birth. Been there, Done that two times and birthing was MUCH MORE DIFFICULT.

On a real note ~ I truly can’t believe I sewed this. Never would have believed it a few weeks ago.

It would be great if I could actually take you through the whole process, but since this is my FIRST quilt, it’d kind of be a joke if I wrote a tutorial. Search the web and I know you’ll find some amazing bloggers who are pros at quilting. BUT, here are a few progress pictures.

The center is done after sewing each square together.

Figuring out the border and binding fabrics.

Will there be more quilts, you ask?…. I don’t know. Since this took me half a century ~ (haha) well, maybe not that long ~ I think I’ll stick to quick, 1-day projects for now. I’m an instant gratification girl, and this took a wee bit long for me. BUT, I do have to say….I am quite impressed with myself and glad that I stuck it out!

Along the way, I learned some crazy sewing lingo that is probably part of the everyday language for someone who frequently sews, but for a beginner like me, it was quite interesting.

Here are just a few:

‘Walking’ Foot ~ Yes, I walk with my feet, but how does it pertain to sewing?? A ‘walking’ foot is a special sewing machine foot that moves the top and bottom layer of fabric together to avoid shifting or puckering. It’s an essential for attaching bindings, straight line quilting, and curves ~ WHO KNEW?! And I used this 80% of the time when making my quilt, so it’s a must-need tool when sewing! To learn more, take a look at this article: What is a Walking Foot?

Fat Quarter ~ WHAT? A fat quarter..that’s a crazy name! A fat quarter is a quarter yard of fabric that typically measures 18″ x 22″. It’s proportioned differently than if you cut a typical quarter yard of fabric cut from a bolt of fabric which would be only 9″ x 44″. Fat quarters are GREAT for small projects. The center part of my quilt was all made using fat quarters. Here is a great article on What’s a Fat Quarter?

Stitch in the Ditch ~ Does that mean I’m supposed to bring my sewing machine outside and sew in a ditch?? NO, NOT AT ALL! The term ‘stitch in the ditch’ means to sew long, straight lines between the seams (or “ditches”) on the quilt top using your walking foot. This is how the front and the back of the quilt stay together and in position. To read more, view this article, How do I “stitch in the ditch”? Take a look at the picture below of how I ‘stitched in the ditch’ with white thread.

Those are just a few of the interesting (to say the least) terms that I learned throughout the process of creating my first quilt.

Even though sewing can often be thought of as challenging and intimidating, with the right materials and a few basic skills, it’s easy AND fun!

And to start with, it’s important to have a good sewing machine. For years, I had a basic machine that had limited options and had a needle that kept on breaking, UGH! Recently, I invested in a new machine, and it’s the reason why I’ve been loving to sew. Sewing machines can cost $1000s, but unless you are an expert, you really do not need to invest that much $$!

This machine is probably something you’ll want to pass on especially if you’re just starting out!

BUT, here are a few sewing machines that I recommend for a beginner that can grow with you and still be used at an intermediate and/or expert level.
Brother CP-7500 (this is the machine I got)
Singer 7258
Brother CS6000i

When looking at a machine, it’s best to find one that includes lots of extras, like these:

Now that I’m an expert sewer – NOT! OK, OK ~ a beginner / allllllmost intermediate sewer (seamstress)…I can say that sewing is really not that difficult.

Here are a few more pictures of my FIRST QUILT —

And here’s my daughter enjoying her new beauty~

If you ever wanted to learn to sew, but thought it was too difficult, let me tell you….it’s NOT. I did take a class to get me started / motivated and it gave me the jump-start to begin something that I’ve been wanting to do for years!

Just Do It!! (I sound like a Nike ad, lol)

Linking up to:
Between Naps on the Porch-Met Monday, All Things Heart & Home-All Things Inspired,Savvy Southern Style-B&A Party, House of Hepworths , Shabby Chic Cottage-Transformation Thursdays, The Shabby Nest, Tatertots and Jello-Weekend Wrapup, Thrifty Decor Chick

DIY: Turning an Old Rug into a Chevron Beauty!

Written by Jenna on March 11, 2011. Posted in DIY, Paint, Patterns, rugs.

In yesterday’s post, I shared with you how the classic chevron pattern is back and better than ever with a new twist making a modern and BOLD statement. I wanted to add the stylish chevron pattern in my own home, so I took the worn and blah sisal rug from my front foyer and vamped it up with some color and pizzaz! Inspired by the nursery rug that Miggy of This Little Miggy Stayed Home, I set off to add some chevron into my life!

Here is a before shot of my old, ugly sisal rug that I’ve had for years ~

Let’s start the REVAMP! First, you need your tools. Using the right tools ALWAYS makes the project SO MUCH easier. Figuring out the pattern was a little tricky and I had to do some calculations to make sure the pattern was centered on the rug. (Even with using my handy-dandy calculator and drawing, I STILL made mistakes)…no biggie…it’s handmade, right? That’s the beauty of it….Are you asking yourself what the clear “thing” is with the yellow on it (at the bottom of the pic)? That’s an adjustable triangle. It adjusts to the angle that you are working with. Most standard architectural triangles are on a 45 degree angle or a 30, 60, 90 degree angle, but this magical instrument lets YOU adjust the angle to whatever you need. It’s actually from my college days in Architecture school and even though I never thought I’d use this tool again, it REALLY came in handy for this project. SIDETRACK, let’s move on…

I found the center mark with two measuring tapes and using Painter’s Tape started making my zig zag line from that point ~

Once you’ve got the center point and first line complete (which is the most difficult part of the project), you are smooth sailing… I chose a zig zag width of 5″ thick and it made sense for this 5′ x 8′ rug size. Thinner or thicker stripes could also work.

Continue your zig zag stripes to create your beautiful chevron patterned rug ~

It’s time to start painting! I chose the colors of chocolate and burnt orange. Both colors I already had from other painting projects in the house. At this point, I’ve spent nothing for this project (I even had the painters tape from our recent basement renovation).

Because the rug had a worn look from years of foot traffic, I wanted to create a distressed, non-perfect chevron look. Using a dry brush method, I applied one coat of paint in a stipple style. Chocolate is FINITO ~ on to the Burnt Orange…

And it’s done! Looks a little weird with the blue, but just wait…

Beauty! (it doesn’t look amazing against the existing blue tile, but that’s another project for another day…it’s all a work in progress…)

I love how the rug looks with the vibrant colored striped fabric on the bench. It also works wonderfully with the rug designs in the two adjacent rooms. (The scale of the jacket on the hook looks a little odd ~ guess I should have taken it off, O well…I still love the rug)!

Another view…

I’m in LOVE! With the added pattern in the room, the foyer looks completely different. I hope you’ve enjoyed my chevron tutorial. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! Do you have any chevron pattern in your home?

DIY: Turning an Old Rug into a Chevron Beauty!

Written by Jenna on March 11, 2011. Posted in DIY, Paint, Patterns, rugs. 26 Comments on DIY: Turning an Old Rug into a Chevron Beauty!

Here is a before shot of my old, ugly sisal rug that I’ve had for years ~

I found the center mark with two measuring tapes and using Painter’s Tape started making my zig zag line from that point ~

Continue your zig zag stripes to create your beautiful chevron patterned rug ~

And it’s done! Looks a little weird with the blue, but just wait…

Beauty! (it doesn’t look amazing against the existing blue tile, but that’s another project for another day…it’s all a work in progress…)

Another view…

DIY: Fireplace Surround Transformation

Written by Jenna on January 10, 2011. Posted in DIY, Tile. 29 Comments on DIY: Fireplace Surround Transformation

With the second week of the new decade upon us, I have lots of tile projects brewing in my head. So far for 2011, I’ve accomplished three (of many) projects that have been on my mind since we moved into our home almost a year ago. My latest project has been re-tiling the surround of the fireplace.

Here is a preview of the completed fireplace:

{The TRANSFORMATION}

The first step of the transformation took place last year and that step alone was {HUGE}! We updated the mantel by painting it a dark brown from the original oak finish. There were decorative faux-appliques on the flat surface that we also removed to create a more transitional look. Here are picture of the before, middle, and after!

This is a ‘pic’ from when we moved into the house….

fireplace = in need of some MAJOR LOVE!

We painted it a dark brown color, but left the tile.

It just didn’t go with our decor, so we…..

…transformed it to THIS! Voila….The new fireplace surround!

I’ve previously posted a tile project {click here} that I’ve worked on and provided a step-by-step tutorial, but here it is again!

{Step By Step to install TILE}

Tiling seems like a difficult process, but honestly, it really isn’t. Just take your time…that’s the KEY! To start off, make sure the area/surface you are working is completely clean. I also want to add that I DID NOT remove the old tile…we tiled right on top of the OLD tile. Some may say this is a mistake, BUT, I did not want to deal with removing the old tile and it isn’t a surface that will be walked on…what the HAaaaaY…let’s go for it 🙂

Before using any adhesive, do a DRY RUN. Layout your tile pattern to make sure it will work how you want it. Once you put adhesive down ~ YOU ARE COMMITTED! Mark off where you want the tile to be cut. THEN….

…Use a WET SAW to cut your pieces! This is my BEST ADVICE for the whole project….Did you hear me?? Definitely USE a Wet Saw!!! In previous tile projects, we used a manual tile cutter…BIG MISTAKE. You will waste sooo much tile and the project will take double the time. Invest in a Wet Saw….we bought ours for $45 from Home Depot….it’s worth it!

Once the tiles are cut to size, it’s time to put on the adhesive. (Keep on reading for my recommendations on adhesive & grout). Throw a glob of adhesive on the back of your tile OR on the surface you are tiling. Because we were tiling a small area versus an entire floor, putting the adhesive on the back of the tile was MUCH easier! Then using a V-grooved trowel, evenly coat the back of the tile (holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle) and adhere it to the surface. Set the first tile in place, pressing it firmly into the mortar.

For this project and my last tile project, I used a pre-mix adhesive and grout. What a great product…no need to bother with mixing the grout powder and water. BUT, this product is costly and is really best when tiling small areas. For larger tiling projects, I would recommend a separate adhesive and grout mixture (only because of the cost factor). For this project it worked perfectly. Forgot to add…it is available in a variety of colors…I used alabaster.

We installed the tile at the top first and due to the laws of gravity, the tile started to fall…GGGrrreat! SO… we used our son’s skateboard ramp to hold them in place….it worked perfectly, YAY (I knew that darn thing would come in handy)!! NOTE: If tiling a vertical surface, you may need to use supports to keep the tile in place.

Then we started on the sides of the surround…

Then the floor…

DONE!

Because of the area I was working in, I didn’t want the fireplace mantel to get ruined, so using painters tape, I taped the surrounding surfaces.

Tile is INSTALLED and now it’s time to GROUT!

This is the second time I grouted using a Ziploc bag and it made the process SO easy. Usually the task of grouting is quite laborious, but NOT with a Ziploc bag! Just like you would frost a cake, put your grout mixture into a Ziploc bag and grout-away!

Squeeze out the grout and fill each joint with more than enough of the mixture ~ THEN…

….Once all the joints are filled with enough grout, start to wipe it away with a damp sponge (wring dripless) to remove grout residue. Use a sponge that is specific for tile ~ one side is a typical sponge and the other side has a rough, abrasive surface. The rough side is important to remove the grout off the tile surface, but DON’T scrub the joints!

Remove the haze immediately; If the tile starts to look like this, wipe the haze with a damp cloth again. Then buff the tiles with a clean, dry cloth. This may happen several times. Then…

YOU’RE DONE!

{COMPLETE}

I am SO happy to have finally completed this project. It’s been on my to-do-list for a long time and I’m very happy with the results.

Do you have any tile projects planned around your house?